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kapnk 24th August 2011 07:46 PM

SAE 2200. Could use some hints.
I just received it yesterday.

Powers up(idle lights come on).

No sound out of channel one.

LOW sound out of channel 2 with my mixer pretty maxed. No additional leds light on the amp, though.

Driving it with a cd player through my gemini dj mixer.

I haven't opened it up, yet(it was late and I didn't want to get sucked into an all nighter).

I've repaired all kinds of car amps(was always the outputs).
This is my 1st attempt at some home equip.

I d/l'd the schem from wards(noting the error indicated in another ak thread).

Given the behavior, can I rule anything out and narrow it down to a particular haystack?

Thanks for any advice,

llwhtt 24th August 2011 08:31 PM

Not to take anything away from this forum but you might try over on SAETalk. There are many SAE, GAS, and SUMO groupies there.


Burnedfingers 24th August 2011 09:54 PM

When you power it on do you hear the relay click roughly 7-10 seconds after power up? If not you have a DC fault of some type.

No Leds no signal out. Pretty straight forward amplifier fully symmetrical in design. I'll look for a schematic as I have one around here someplace. I bought two 2200's of ebay years back both blown up. You can go thru one in several hours and totally rebuild it which would be the way to go considering the age of it.

djk 25th August 2011 01:54 AM

The electrolytic caps in the feedback loop to ground dry up and the amplifier reverts to unity gain.

Burnedfingers 25th August 2011 02:07 AM

Good point

You might as well replace ALL the caps as well as the transistors and you will have something that will live for years. The dual diff transistors are very hard to come by anymore but ECG does have them. With respect to the rest of the transistors do not use ECG or NTE. Replace the outputs with MJ15024 and MJ15025's. Use the ON semi's for the driver transistors also.

kapnk 30th August 2011 02:33 PM


Originally Posted by 6BG6GA (
When you power it on do you hear the relay click roughly 7-10 seconds after power up? If not you have a DC fault of some type.

No relay action. I saw two burnt resistors(1/4 watt 120 and 330 ohm) on the input board on the non-functional channel.

I'm going to replace those and see what it does. I think I might still have issues with the p/s or output section unless it is in protect(hence lack of relay activity) due to the input fault.

What type/brand of resistor should I look for?


sregor 30th August 2011 06:34 PM

Schematic at (part of
Those two resistors are part of the current limiting circuit, with no relay probably means that the outputs on that side are probably shorted, the current limit resistor is probably gone, and the emitter resistors (.22 white blocks) may be open. There may be other parts bad - SAE's usually take out a lot of parts when they go, and best to make sure all bad components are replaced before applying power. When applying power, should get a variac and current monitor, or dim bulb tester (incandescent lamp in series with the AC going in) to prevent damage if something isn't right. Good luck.

kapnk 6th September 2011 04:31 PM

These are the components I counted on the three boards. I'm going to price them all. I need to find the SAE part number list(I stumbled on it but now can't seem to find it). I have a very small transistor(part number: 11-0154) that blew on the output board. It touches the heatsink and has thermal paste on it.

Output Board:

4 .2ohm 5w block resistors(back-side of board)
2 500? Trim pots(back-side of board)
4 .1uF 250V block caps
4 IN4004 diodes
2 11-0154 transistors
2 10ohm 2w axial resistors
2 2.2ohm 2w axial res…
2 2.2k .25w res
2 1k .25w res
2 .01uF caps
2 MJ15024(recommended sub)
2 MJ15025(recommended sub)

Power Supply Board:
2 IN4004 diode
6 11-0098 diodes
1 1000uF 10V electrolytic
2 ELNA 10000uF 63V electrolytic
4 100k .25w resistors
1 10k .25w resistor
1 150ohm .25w res
1 680ohm 2w
2 .1uF block resistors
2 11-0044 transistors
1 11-0117 transistor
1 11-0154 transistor
1 220uF 16V electrolytic
2 100uF 10V electrolytic
1 10uF 50V electrolytic
2 1uF 50 V electrolytic

Driver Board:
2 11-0150 Transistors
2 11-0151 Transistors
4 10ohm .5w resistors
6 200pF caps
2 62ohm .5w res
12 IN4148 Diodes
4 10k .25w res
4 120ohm .25w res
12 100uF 10v electrolytic
2 11-0044 trans
2 11-0117 trans
4 .01uF caps
4 330ohm .25w res
6 10ohm .25w res
2 .001uF caps(skinny green)
2 11-0083A trans
2 11-0080A trans
2 5.1k .5w res
4 68ohm .25w res
4 680ohm .25w res
4 150k .25w res
2 11-0155 trans
2 11-0154 trans
8 22pF cap
2 100uF 25V electrolytic
4 3.9k .5w res
2 240ohm .5 res
4 15k .25w res
2 z-51V diodes
2 11-0174 trans
2 11-0175 trans
4 1.8k .25w res
4 100k .25w res
2 1k .25w res
2 330k .25w res
4 .1uF block caps

kapnk 6th September 2011 08:50 PM

OK. I found the SAE x-ref: SAE Audio Repair Tech Info - Part Number Cross Reference Table

A few of the transistors are obsolete and multiple subs are available. I will drill down my info when I get home to isolate those and ask for an opinion on which I should get.

Should I be looking at 5% metal film resistors for my .25w and .5watters?


dillmeister 6th September 2011 11:39 PM

I'll be monitoring your progress kapnk, as I have a 2200 that has blown up a few times but is working now. I bought it new back in the day and plan to do a complete overhaul on it now that I have a few working power amps to listen to whilst it is down. If I can help with pictures or simple voltage measurements let me know and I will do my best to assist. ( :

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