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#71 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Germany
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Quote:
The whole system is over-regulated, you need to have a "Meisterbrief" to be allowed to do repairs, not even an EE degree is enough. We can only dream of shops offering fixed rates and warranty on repairs. |
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#72 | |
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Banned
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Quote:
Contrary to Germany here in Holland every idiot can open a repair shop, and they do!. No proof of craftmanship needed. Of course this has a disastrous effect on the prices and the quality of the repairs. European Community? They only common I see is that prices are in Euro's in both countries. |
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#73 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Woodlands Circle
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1100 seems a bit steep...could have used the money to build a complete new amp...
__________________
Kids in the back seat cause accidents...Accidents in the back seat cause kids... |
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#74 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SiliconValley
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I had a working Krell KSA250 in the closet for about 2 years. When I turned it on this this week, DEAD. I can hear the relays click when I plug it in, but the front blue LED does not come on, no voltages in the amp come up, and the amp does not cycle on. Since the blue LED on the amplifier control board does not come on, my first guess is that this board is broke.
The repair costs at Krell would be painful but acceptable...the $300 shipping costs and hauling around 150 lbs of amp make me want to try some local repairs before I send it off. I also have a second KSA250 that is working fine. I was thinking about the best way to determine what is broke on the one amp by swapping the power up module. What is the safest option? Should I take the power-up module from the good amp and put in the bad amp, or should I take the power-up module from the bad amp and put it in the good amp? The power-up module is a PCB on the front of the amp which has about 8-10 wires attached. I suspect this includes a low voltage AC to power the unit, the AC mains for the main transformer to get swtiched on, output short detection, and DC voltage check of the main power rails. |
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#75 |
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diyAudio Member
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try trouble shooting the working unit and compair it to the broken unit. You will also need a Varac, a scope and meter. You might have to breck down the unit, since there are so tighly packed.
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Jim W. |
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#76 | |
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Banned
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Now your amp is working again and even better I am very curious which transistors you eventually did use for the output and drivers and so on. Please give us some insight after so much help and discussion!
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#77 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hello Elso I have used the driver transistors MJE 150031-15030 and the output transistors MJ 15024 15025 The technician has also all other transistors to renew The technician has all transistor accuratly matched. The sound of the KSA 100 is very linear. Much better as before. Best regards Alex |
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