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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Hi all
I have an old Kenwood KR-55 receiver. It worked well until I decided to hook up a pair of 4 ohm speakers. No problem, but then I got carried away and cranked up the volume. Played for a while and then both channels went silent. I figure that I managed to cook the output transistors. Replacing them and/or anything else that got fried should be straight-forward. However, when I took off the top cover I was confronted by the mechanics of the tuner section. It's all beautifully made, with a long belt looped over various pulleys for the tuner needle et al. This is where I'm a little flustered. To get to the amplifier section all of this has to come off. How straight-forward is the re-assembly of these things? I' ve been all over the internet to find a service manual, but most sites returned by the search engines seem to be constructed to lure us there with false promises. This is a phenomenon that is worth a discussion all of its own, but I digress. Other sites promises a manual but they want money for it. Being a tight-wad I'm very reluctant to hand out my card number. Any general guidelines on taking apart analogue tuners (and putting them together again) would therefore be much appreciated. I can post a picture of the mechanics if that will help. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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pic or two , are generally helpful
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my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; BAF Forum & Gallery;I'm dumb
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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see if the bottom panel doesn't screw off, manu older designs use an upside down PCB accesable from the bottom. The screws may be in or behind the feet.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Here is the view from the top. One of the trannies show definite signs of being past its prime.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Taking off the bottom cover turned out to be straight-forward. Hat tip to digits.
I guess the best approach is to leave the PCB in place and just de-solder things where they are. A bit fiddly but dismantling all of this looks quite daunting. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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The output transistors are 2SD613/2SB633. Now to find equivalents/replacements.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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The Sanyo datasheet gives the 2SD613/2SB633 out as 85V, 6A, 15MHz devices. The fT of 15MHz seems hard to find in a TO220 high(ish) current device. Another datasheet from Wing Shing Computer Components Co., (H.K.)Ltd (WHO?) specs it as 8MHz.
About the closest match I've seen so far is the BD911/BD912. Same package and lead orientation (BCE) but 'only' 3MHz. Matching of transistors? I will have to look into that. Last edited by ingenieus; 6th August 2011 at 12:39 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: home sweet home
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did you check those fuses first?
replace them if blown and see if it's not just a case of blown fuse |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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The fuses are OK. Checked them with my trusty Fluke 77. As the old saying goes, they were protected by the transistors.
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