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Old 28th August 2003, 03:17 PM   #11
cdl is offline cdl  Denmark
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Copenhagen

Originally posted by iso_510M
This may help.

20N10L Datasheet

Looks like heat should be a concern. P-tot is 105W but derate .7W/*C

Hmmm, you might be right. Actually, have been forced to exchange most of the 20N10L's with a newer HexFet type (20N10L is no longer available anywhere) - and I think the newer type might be better in that regard. But there's still the other channel...


That is a familiar looking design. What amp is it?
It is the Aura PA-200.

Originally posted by BobM
Why not call the manufacturer, get an engineer on the phone and ask what the bias should be for that model? Going "hotter" is not always better. Sounds like a better idea than blowing resistors to see how far you can push it.

That's the fuss. Aura was produced by B&W, and they discontinued it completely some abount 5 years ago... and now will know nothing of it At least that is the answer I was given at a previous occasion when I asked for some detail about Aura.

But it's a good idea, so I have submitted a question to B&W ... now let's see if they reply.

Thanks a lot - cdl
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Old 28th August 2003, 03:22 PM   #12
cdl is offline cdl  Denmark
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Copenhagen
Default Another question...

By the ways, while you are looking at the schem...

Isn't the INA103 in the input doing absolutely nothing for me, as I am driving the amp from a single-ended preamp anyway?

As far as I can see, it just amplifies the signal with a gain between 5 or 10 - which I might just as well do in the gain stage of my DIY preamp (active preamp is needed for this one anyway, input impedance of only 10K). And feed the single ended input directly to the SMT amp module ... that would remove three "useless" opamps from the signal path?

Any opinions?

Cheers, cdl
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