Proton am-30 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Solid State

Solid State Talk all about solid state amplification.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 4th August 2011, 10:59 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Default Proton am-30

I am looking for pattern or something similar for proton am-30 Amplifier
Antonello
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th August 2011, 01:35 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Paris
Hi Antonello,

Attached is a schematics not exactly AM-30's but close to it. In red the actual designation and type of transistors of AM-30's.
Mine had the right channel blown. I fixed it by changing output transistors and their drivers and Q509 too.
Note that I replaced output transistors 2SC3281 and 2SA1302 by MJL3281 and MJL1302 and it works fine.
You said you always burnt a driver; make sure to replace insulating stuff as the driver heatsink can get in contact with the main heatsink.

Before powering on the amp, try to disconnect the final stage power (unplug the connector the closest to the main heatsink), power on it and check the various voltages. You can compare with the other channel voltages. This check can help you find issues with less risk to blown again the final stages. If this check looks correct, plug again the connector and cross the fingers

Laurent.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Proton-AM30-Schema.jpg (898.7 KB, 120 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th August 2011, 09:26 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by echopapa View Post
Hi Antonello,

Attached is a schematics not exactly AM-30's but close to it. In red the actual designation and type of transistors of AM-30's.
Mine had the right channel blown. I fixed it by changing output transistors and their drivers and Q509 too.
Note that I replaced output transistors 2SC3281 and 2SA1302 by MJL3281 and MJL1302 and it works fine.
You said you always burnt a driver; make sure to replace insulating stuff as the driver heatsink can get in contact with the main heatsink.

Before powering on the amp, try to disconnect the final stage power (unplug the connector the closest to the main heatsink), power on it and check the various voltages. You can compare with the other channel voltages. This check can help you find issues with less risk to blown again the final stages. If this check looks correct, plug again the connector and cross the fingers

Laurent.
__________________________________________________ _______________


Hello thanks for the pattern just saw him today
but in between I had already burned more transistors ..
Cable ... not foot the first time that this had a hand I found the 2 MJL 21194/21193 short equity and its drivers
I replaced them and it worked well ... then in an Italian forum, but one said that the transistors were not so original tarot
So I ordered them from milano (I live in Sardinia) I get them to return and this time I'm in this mess
wrong position of the first pilots
Then I did not realize that a transistor was shorted
Last time I burned because the transistors were wrong position
Once again I am blown because I forgot the mica insulation
I finally found myself with no more spare parts and are still at a standstill
I also replaced the various bc 550/556 / and more ... I checked the resistors and diodes, comparing them with the good channel ... I also replaced the trimmer with the same value of what is working in the channel ...
but I have not solved ...
Now I have to go to Rome for the holidays when we return to meddle ...
Thanks Laurent for the scheme
Antonello
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th August 2011, 09:27 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by echopapa View Post
Hi Antonello,

Attached is a schematics not exactly AM-30's but close to it. In red the actual designation and type of transistors of AM-30's.
Mine had the right channel blown. I fixed it by changing output transistors and their drivers and Q509 too.
Note that I replaced output transistors 2SC3281 and 2SA1302 by MJL3281 and MJL1302 and it works fine.
You said you always burnt a driver; make sure to replace insulating stuff as the driver heatsink can get in contact with the main heatsink.

Before powering on the amp, try to disconnect the final stage power (unplug the connector the closest to the main heatsink), power on it and check the various voltages. You can compare with the other channel voltages. This check can help you find issues with less risk to blown again the final stages. If this check looks correct, plug again the connector and cross the fingers

Laurent.
_____________________________
Hello thanks for the pattern just saw him today
but in between I had already burned more transistors ..
Cable ... not foot the first time that this had a hand I found the 2 MJL 21194/21193 short equity and its drivers
I replaced them and it worked well ... then in an Italian forum, but one said that the transistors were not so original tarot
So I ordered them from milano (I live in Sardinia) I get them to return and this time I'm in this mess
wrong position of the first pilots
Then I did not realize that a transistor was shorted
Last time I burned because the transistors were wrong position
Once again I am blown because I forgot the mica insulation
I finally found myself with no more spare parts and are still at a standstill
I also replaced the various bc 550/556 / and more ... I checked the resistors and diodes, comparing them with the good channel ... I also replaced the trimmer with the same value of what is working in the channel ...
but I have not solved ...
Now I have to go to Rome for the holidays when we return to meddle ...
Thanks Laurent for the scheme
Antonello
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th November 2012, 04:42 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Hello,

I received a Proton AM-30 today but I burnt two resistors when I turned on the power.
White smoke! Section Q510,resistors R532/RX2 (?).these are totally blown up.
I also saw some transparent/yellow-ish liquid on the base of two little capacitors. Could it be glue? (which I doubt of because of the well finished work on this cardboard) Maybe a leak?
I'm not so good at electronic,so I dont know if I could do it on my own.
Maybe I could find the resistors/capa values on the scheme and replace them.
Any advice would be welcome,since there is not much data on this amp on the web.

Thanks
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wanted: 30-0-30 500VA transformer x 2 (UK/EU) firestorm Swap Meet 0 12th January 2011 01:30 PM
Proton AM-30: Blown 2SA1302-2SC3281 echopapa Solid State 2 29th December 2010 08:16 PM
Premier Speaker Stands ... by Paradigm -- model: S-30 (30"tall) Livin Swap Meet 10 3rd February 2009 02:08 PM
Q: Zen-lite with -30~+30 voltage rail? Peter Huang Pass Labs 2 7th August 2007 11:42 AM
2 x 500VA 30-0-30 Toroidal Power Transformers WALTER BURKHARD Swap Meet 4 30th July 2005 01:01 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:20 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2