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Old 26th January 2013, 05:38 PM   #3851
naf is offline naf  Indonesia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaan View Post
Bundle ten of them like dynamite sticks and join the fusewires at both ends. There you got a big and powerful 10uF dynamite... err... no, capacitor.
..
guitar parallel all 10, and you'll go for 10uf dc blocking cap
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Old 26th January 2013, 06:10 PM   #3852
Jay is offline Jay  Indonesia
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Or 2x 22uF in series, back to back. BTW, NP/BP is not always better than ordinary one. Just try any quality cap.
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Old 26th January 2013, 11:24 PM   #3853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaan View Post
Bundle ten of them like dynamite sticks and join the fusewires at both ends. There you got a big and powerful 10uF dynamite... err... no, capacitor.
Quite a waste to use them like that ^^ better buy a big one to use

Also waste of spaces, lining them like a choo-choo-train.

Last edited by guitar89; 26th January 2013 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 26th January 2013, 11:27 PM   #3854
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Or 2x 22uF in series, back to back. BTW, NP/BP is not always better than ordinary one. Just try any quality cap.
hmm..... in series ? does electrolytic able to do that ? (in AC signal) positive or negative lead should bind together ? What NP/BP ?
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Old 27th January 2013, 12:16 AM   #3855
Jay is offline Jay  Indonesia
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NP=Non-Polar. BP=Bi-Polar.

Putting 2 polarized elcos make them like NP or BP.
2x22uF makes 11uF.

Can be positive to positive, or negative to negative. I don't know which arrangements suit which situations. But both can be done just like choosing NP or BP
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Old 27th January 2013, 01:16 AM   #3856
naf is offline naf  Indonesia
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i use nichicon muze bp 10uf/35 elco in mysecond stereo for my friend.
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Old 27th January 2013, 04:49 AM   #3857
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Originally Posted by shaan View Post
That's correct.
Hi, I have insert the input filter, as close to base as possible. But the slight buzzing nosie I mention earlier still exist, maybe due to lack of shielding. (it is naked PCB ^^ no casing so far)

But what I notice is that the idle current of all my BJT is lower, maybe due to elimination of inaudible oscillation. 10mA of VAS became lesser than 9mA most of the time, except VAS become very hot due to palying music loudly.

Anyway, casing for shielding should connect to safety earth or ground ? or use '1 ohm style' ?
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Old 27th January 2013, 06:05 PM   #3858
shaan is offline shaan  India
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar89 View Post
What I notice is that the idle current of all my BJT is lower, maybe due to elimination of inaudible oscillation. 10mA of VAS became lesser than 9mA most of the time.
You can decrease the 1k2 resistors in small steps to increase current through input and VAS transistors.

Quote:
VAS become very hot due to palying music loudly.
Small "U" shaped heatsinks will be good for VAS. Direct contact, no mica or other insulation.

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Anyway, casing for shielding should connect to safety earth or ground ?
Safety earth directly connected to casing. From there a 10ohm to signal ground.
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Old 27th January 2013, 11:28 PM   #3859
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You can decrease the 1k2 resistors in small steps to increase current through input and VAS transistors.
Hehe, I have no problem with that, I could adjust the pot to adjust both sides idle current and output voltage.

But what I meant is this happen (reduction of current) without adjusting pot, I'm suggesting something happen in input line, such as reduction of HF noise.

Maybe I should put up my schematic later on after I make it nice ^^

Quote:
Small "U" shaped heatsinks will be good for VAS. Direct contact, no mica or other insulation.
hehe, I'm using small heatsink, but sufficiently cooled for me. The VAS doesn't goes very hot, but just makes idle current increase slightly.


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Safety earth directly connected to casing. From there a 10ohm to signal ground.
Hm..... yeah, but if I doesn't remember wrongly, someone also suggest put cap parallelly to the 10 ohm.
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Old 28th January 2013, 07:10 AM   #3860
shaan is offline shaan  India
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Yes. A 0.1uF cap parallel to the resistor will be good for RF suppression.
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