Dx Blame MKIII-Hx - Builder's thread

[alex mm]

@BMW850 , input capacitor 2,2uF/63V I have used MKP type and big enought to all audio spectrum , higher value alow to pass low frequency . You have nice pictures.
Regards Alex.

[canonnica]

The schematics states a 1uF for that position... I'll stick with the value on the schematics. This is a coupling cap, the small line signal passes entirely through it, indeed making it critical. I decided to go with metallized polyester film as it seems to be unanimous among the DIY community that it's the best type for that position.

My personal choice is a Vishay MKT1813510014.

Martin.

[crispycircuit]

I really enjoy hearing about what parts are preferred so I can hopefully get the right parts the first time. It's all about good sound. So let us know your likes and dislikes etc..... Finding the parts is another story!

[Francois G]

Originally Posted by canonnica

.. I decided to go with metallized polyester film as it seems to be unanimous among the DIY community that it's the best type for that position.

Martin.

Hi Martin,

You must be kidding about "unanimous among the DIY community"

I prefer pond slime on toad skin caps.

Has anything ever been unanimous?

Francois

[destroyer X]

If you replace all the boutique fashion parts with cheap, old and used electrolitic condenser you will not perceive any difference.

But do the honest test.... install both in the board and a switch to connect one and other, or one or other, or A or B..... previously measure to be sure your capacitors have the same value in microfarads...if electrolitic, then install the positive to the base if you have positive voltage there (milivolts)... then ask someone to switch these capacitors... the guy will give the name A and B...the operator will mark A with a pen..... no one knows what capacitor is A or B.... you do not know and the operator must promisse not to follow connections to know what is A or B (or he will modulate his voice according to his own preference).... then repeat this test.

I will give you a nice Chocolate Cake...inside cream of eggs in one layer and cream of coconut in the other layer... covered with Chantilly cream and a big strawberry at the top.... also i gonna pay the Coke and you will not have to clean the dishes IF YOU PERCEIVE A DIFFERENCE.

You gonna be surprised... we have beliefs.... faith.... we think the expensive is better...we think the big one is better...we think the red or gold ones are better... we think about the shape, the material.... we never think about sound..... faith is this way.... to believe in something that we have no prove (proof?)..... be happy folks...and enjoy your amplifier...it will play nice and this does not depends your part's choice.... was the circuit selected..the current selected, the bias selected, the surrounding auxiliary sub circuits selection, the VAS selection..... parts, if not entirelly wrong in value will not change the amplifier quality.

But if you really believe the golden one is better....well.... no hopes for you...your are fanatic and this is a disease that has no cure.... be happy.

regards,

Carlos

[canonnica]

Originally Posted by Francois G

Hi Martin,

You must be kidding about "unanimous among the DIY community"

I prefer pond slime on toad skin caps.

Has anything ever been unanimous?

Francois

Hi Francois,

You're right, I should've said "based on my own personal research on this forum while seeking for the answer of the exact question that's been asked, it seems that a certain majority, a certain non-minority (or is it a non certain minority) prefers this kind instead of that kind , blahblahblahblah..... blah". I had to order that component anyway because I didn't have it in my "senior parts" box, so one type or another my plan was not to compare this component anyway. I search, found my own suitable answer, ordered, soldered, powered, enjoyed.

That's the long answer.

Where are you at with your Hx project? Can you share your pictures?

[Francois G]

Originally Posted by canonnica

Where are you at with your Hx project? Can you share your pictures?

Thank for allowing me a bit of humor on the caps. You and Carlos are right of course - design/topology is much much more important than boutique parts.

Alas, I have no progress on my DX Blame Mk III-HX. I'm currently finishing my new Elsinore Mk V speakers (hopefully this weekend).
The "Elsinore Project" Thread

After that the HX will follow.

Regards,
Francois

[canonnica]

Originally Posted by Francois G

Thank for allowing me a bit of humor on the caps. You and Carlos are right of course - design/topology is much much more important than boutique parts.

Alas, I have no progress on my DX Blame Mk III-HX. I'm currently finishing my new Elsinore Mk V speakers (hopefully this weekend).
The "Elsinore Project" Thread

After that the HX will follow.

Regards,
Francois

Wow, it seems to be quite an ambitious project. Woodworking is a lot more work that many would suspect. When you start working on the Hx, I guess you're gonna have a lot of enjoyment as well. It sounds so sweet and powerful.
Good nite
Martin.

[ByronInLawrence]

The threaded mounting stud on the bottom of each capacitor is connected to the negative lead. I'm unable to figure out what kind of mental invalid would not only design such a stupid feature, but then not put a word in the description or data sheet telling us that the mounting stud is actually a second negative lead. How many hours of frustration did I waste trying to troubleshoot my PS because some engineer at Kemet didn't have the common sense to put something so important in the data sheet? Or maybe it's my fault. Maybe there is a secret code among electrical engineers which says that mounting studs on all electrolytic capacitors are actually secret leads? And it's so obvious to all EE's that it doesn't need to be mentioned anywhere in the capacitor's description? How could I possibly have guessed this? And when I realized it, I assumed the cap was damaged or defective.

And now how am I going to mount the caps to the chassis? I'll have to get giant rubber grommets, and I'll still have 4 highly charged bolts sticking through the chassis to insulate. What could possibly be the the purpose of such a design? How did the engineers think we were going to mount these? Why the hell would anyone want the negative lead grounded to the chassis, or whatever is holding the capacitor? And if someone did want that design feature, aren't they capable of just running that wire themselves?

It's just a profoundly stupid design feature which serves no purpose, and makes them very difficult to use. The only thing dumber than this design is not mentioning this design flaw in the datasheet.

Well, I'm going to bed now and maybe tomorrow I'll think of some way to salvage these rather expensive capacitors.

[crispycircuit]

Byron! What a find! I've never used that style cap, but I'll keep it in mind what you found. Situations like this is why so many projects get put on the shelf for yrs. You obivously went thru a difficult time. Hopefully it will be smooth sailing now..... Thx for sharing