So I am trying to decide whether to build a Class A 100-150W F5T or the Badger to handle difficult speaker loads(electrostatics, ribbons,etc.). Already have Aleph -40 on steroids dual mono overspeced power supply. Sounds great! for 7,8 years now. Has there been any discussion on DIY about the sound quality of the Badger? Or anyone reviewing it anywhere? Looking at Schematics it doesn't look like the simple design, minimal gain stage like the Pass series. Any help or links to info would be appreciated.
The Honey Badger sounds very good to me. It's inspired by Self's Blameless. Sound is roughly similar to my Leach (Jens Rasmussen 5 output pair boards) with perhaps a bit more high end detail. I haven't compared it to an Aleph-J or F5T(V2C) yet, but I need to get those finished before I have surgery next month and can't lift anything for a while.
My HB uses NJW0281/0302 outputs. For difficult loads I think larger package MJL4281/4302 would be appropriate with their better thermal figures. My only concern would be SOA with very reactive loads like the electrostats. Have you measured your real output requirements? Why do you think you need 150W?
If you can post impedance/phase curves for your speakers perhaps OS will comment on suitability. He was working in a "super badger" for his subwoofer duty that may be appropriate.
My HB uses NJW0281/0302 outputs. For difficult loads I think larger package MJL4281/4302 would be appropriate with their better thermal figures. My only concern would be SOA with very reactive loads like the electrostats. Have you measured your real output requirements? Why do you think you need 150W?
If you can post impedance/phase curves for your speakers perhaps OS will comment on suitability. He was working in a "super badger" for his subwoofer duty that may be appropriate.
For difficult loads , 2 options ...
A.) Buy expensive outputs like the semitech MG-xxxx'sComplementary Bipolar Power Transistors for High Power Audio
Double SOA ...
B.) Or use a higher gain driver like 2sc4793/2sa1837 paired with
MJL21193/4.
My badger sub is like this... with 50V rails driving a 3R /188W logitech
10" subwoofer. Not even a "hiccup" .. amp barely even gets warm.
Lower rail voltages will also allow even the little NJW's to have a much
higher SOA. 50V or below is double the SOA compared to 60+ !
OS
A.) Buy expensive outputs like the semitech MG-xxxx'sComplementary Bipolar Power Transistors for High Power Audio
Double SOA ...
B.) Or use a higher gain driver like 2sc4793/2sa1837 paired with
MJL21193/4.
My badger sub is like this... with 50V rails driving a 3R /188W logitech
10" subwoofer. Not even a "hiccup" .. amp barely even gets warm.
Lower rail voltages will also allow even the little NJW's to have a much
higher SOA. 50V or below is double the SOA compared to 60+ !
OS
I'm basing the difficult load criteria from real world conditions. I used to run Acoustat 2+2's with a Adcom 555 first generation rated for 200W per channel. Playing rock at around 95-105 dB after awhile the fuses on the adcom would blow. Solved most fuse blowing issues with forced air cooling on Adcom heatsinks. HB is rated to 250W/channel into 4R correct? I know there is more to it than just watts. I have makings of great power supply 2kVA trannie with plenty of capacitance to go with it. Thanks for the great help guys.
2 KVA at what voltage? Higher rails generally mean smaller SOA, so heed OS's advice to use heavier duty devices with plenty of heat sink with THICK bases. If you had trouble overheating 4 pairs of TO3's and now are looking at 3 pairs of plastic devices, yikes. Put a fan on the sinks, preferable with a temperature controller.
Rail voltage, junction temperature, current and load phase angle all play into the reliability. Using the lowest possible rails to get the voltage swing needed will help keep the magic smoke inside.
Rail voltage, junction temperature, current and load phase angle all play into the reliability. Using the lowest possible rails to get the voltage swing needed will help keep the magic smoke inside.
I guess then .... the MG6333/9413 would be the only "hope" for a
2R badger.
@ 50V rails , http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/866313.pdf
http://products.semelab-tt.com/pdf/ApplicationNoteBipolars.pdf
...just one pair of these could almost match a WHOLE 3 pair NJW badger.
2 pair could leave the adcom in the "dust" , as well.
Spend $80 a channel with monster HS's and drive a 2R sub all day.
I saw the die of one of the MG's (almost 16 x16mm/sq).
Elector rates an amp kit with one pair at 200W !
Q-Watt Audio Power Amplifier - ELEKTOR.com | Electronics: Microcontrollers Embedded Audio Digital Analogue Test Measurement
Imagine 3 pairs .... wow !
They do cost $12usd apiece
.
PS- I just want to see one built.
You would have the distinction of having the "baddest" badger !
OS
2R badger.
@ 50V rails , http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/866313.pdf
http://products.semelab-tt.com/pdf/ApplicationNoteBipolars.pdf
...just one pair of these could almost match a WHOLE 3 pair NJW badger.
2 pair could leave the adcom in the "dust" , as well.
Spend $80 a channel with monster HS's and drive a 2R sub all day.
I saw the die of one of the MG's (almost 16 x16mm/sq).
Elector rates an amp kit with one pair at 200W !
Q-Watt Audio Power Amplifier - ELEKTOR.com | Electronics: Microcontrollers Embedded Audio Digital Analogue Test Measurement
Imagine 3 pairs .... wow !
They do cost $12usd apiece
.PS- I just want to see one built.
You would have the distinction of having the "baddest" badger !
OS
Last edited:
That is still 70+$ in OP's per badger. But I suppose that would not be
an issue for some.
OS
If you have speakers that require this ...sure. Nothing I own even makes
the cheap NJW's or Sanken's "break a sweat".
For a multi-K$ electrostatic or anything that was not thrown together
on the "cheap" , I would even recommend Bonsai's MOSFET output
relay with a good DC/overcurrent sensor.
100$ in semi investment that would save 1K$ in loudspeaker investment
is money well spent.
OS
the cheap NJW's or Sanken's "break a sweat".
For a multi-K$ electrostatic or anything that was not thrown together
on the "cheap" , I would even recommend Bonsai's MOSFET output
relay with a good DC/overcurrent sensor.
100$ in semi investment that would save 1K$ in loudspeaker investment
is money well spent.
OS
Plastic 21193/4's are nearly the same ... only .25 A difference at 60V.
On both style 21193/4's ,current gain is less. VAS would have to run "hotter",
and a higher gain driver would be a plus.
50-55 V ... and the 21193/4 would be a great "bass badger" (4R). A 2R
sub could drop to 1R
But even these ON's can not come close to MG's , especially for short duration
currents. The larger die of the MG's would allow for much greater thermal
dissipation , as well.
If I was running this : http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-510-dayton-audio-um10-22-specifications.pdf
...I would not bother with "cheesy" outputs (semitech all the way) ... might
just hit 500W , as well.
OS
So we are not allowed to share any variations or developments based on this design?
I can't see why such a variation wouldn't be OK since they already offer the PCB line work for those of us that want to etch it ourselves. Since this is the case, why couldn't a modified line work for alternate outputs also be shared?
Just wondering.