More important than pressing hard is to press every square inch.
You really have to work the whole board.
Do not let the iron tip dig in though - you will move the tracks.
5 minutes should be plenty for a 4x6 inch board.
Another method: I heat the board for 5 minutes, highest heat, moving the iron every 30s or so. Pressing, not sliding.
Then I roll it with a rubber platen roller from an old dot-matrix printer, once up-down, once left-right and once diagonal, using a lot of pressure:
platen roller - Google Search
After that soak in cool water and done.
Of course you are cleaning the board with a scotch-brite pad and then acetone before ironing?
I shine it with steel wool pad, perfectly clean, but I will use the acetone next time, that sounds great... I like the part about pressing, not sliding, I do get some smugeing and other distortions too.
Thanks, that is why this forum is the greatest, too the point helpful suggestions from those that have DONE it...
my board is about twice that size.
I think the printer is my problem. I don't think there is enough toner on the paper. too little for a Quicker transfer.
Thanks, that is why this forum is the greatest, too the point helpful suggestions from those that have DONE it...
my board is about twice that size.
I think the printer is my problem. I don't think there is enough toner on the paper. too little for a Quicker transfer.
ostripper amp equals big thumbs up
Hi all.
Nearly finished now, just needs a nice paint job. Had a nice test comparison yesterday with a fellow diyaudio member and 3 different amps Ostripperrs 180w, Blame ST 60w and a mossfet 150w SKA. Was connected to a switchbox with volumes set with pink noise and db meter and switched between the two to get a true comparison on the fly(none of these perceived differences here). The concensus at the end was all three sounded to our ears anyway pretty much identical. All three are brilliant. Seems once you get to amps at this level, it's hard to pick a difference.
Anyway heres some pics of latest ostrippers amp. It has a 600w 40-0-40 tranny for 60v rails, remote controled 4 input volume control from china
(actualy works well with no noise even with it's cheap components), $10 speaker protection board under right hand amp board. Small transformer is for the remote volume and speaker protect board. Main power transformer is switched by the solid state realy in the top left. Soft start is also at the top left and works much better with a 60v DC input. Temperature of vas heatsink never exceeds 35 deg c using the 100r r27 instead of 68r. Using 68r it can get near 50 deg c which was too hot for my liking although still aceptable for others.
Just needs a nice paint job now. Was thinking of black with white racing stripes something all powerful race bred machines need.
By the way I've tried the toner transfer method but could never get it to work either, always ending up with blurry transfers. I used that blue special transfer stuff and it works although it is more expensive.
Regards
Simon
Hi all.
Nearly finished now, just needs a nice paint job. Had a nice test comparison yesterday with a fellow diyaudio member and 3 different amps Ostripperrs 180w, Blame ST 60w and a mossfet 150w SKA. Was connected to a switchbox with volumes set with pink noise and db meter and switched between the two to get a true comparison on the fly(none of these perceived differences here). The concensus at the end was all three sounded to our ears anyway pretty much identical. All three are brilliant. Seems once you get to amps at this level, it's hard to pick a difference.
Anyway heres some pics of latest ostrippers amp. It has a 600w 40-0-40 tranny for 60v rails, remote controled 4 input volume control from china
(actualy works well with no noise even with it's cheap components), $10 speaker protection board under right hand amp board. Small transformer is for the remote volume and speaker protect board. Main power transformer is switched by the solid state realy in the top left. Soft start is also at the top left and works much better with a 60v DC input. Temperature of vas heatsink never exceeds 35 deg c using the 100r r27 instead of 68r. Using 68r it can get near 50 deg c which was too hot for my liking although still aceptable for others. Just needs a nice paint job now. Was thinking of black with white racing stripes something all powerful race bred machines need.
By the way I've tried the toner transfer method but could never get it to work either, always ending up with blurry transfers. I used that blue special transfer stuff and it works although it is more expensive.
Regards
Simon
Attachments
ostripper seems to come and go. Now that we've confirmed that the amp is fully functional, we need to get him to confirm the holes are in the right place as we aren't sure about their location being perfect. Then off to the PCB house. I'd say about 6 weeks total. Sooner if he gets in contact. Anyone willing to check the files and move the mounting holes a couple millimeters if required?
Mark
Mark
In house here we call it the diyAB "Honey Badger" amp
Here's the Honey Badger info if there's anyone who hasn't seen the video:
The Crazy Nastyass Honey Badger (original narration by Randall) - YouTube
Here's the Honey Badger info if there's anyone who hasn't seen the video:
The Crazy Nastyass Honey Badger (original narration by Randall) - YouTube
Badass indeed!
The Honey Badger in me ran the Honey Badger Amp at 150mA bias per device and it still kept on going...
Attachments
Hi.I just have a question.I am not a class AB amp fan ,i like F5 and single ended class a amps.I have sent wrong part to my customer.I send 4,7uf philips mkt cap instead of 1uf mkt cap.Here the circuit
60 Watt MosFet Audio Amplifier - RED - Page100
The capacitor is C6.Will 4,7uf work well?What is it for?What can be the differences?Thanks!
60 Watt MosFet Audio Amplifier - RED - Page100
The capacitor is C6.Will 4,7uf work well?What is it for?What can be the differences?Thanks!
C6 is a charge suck out capacitor.
It attempts to keep a constant voltage across the gates of the output devices.
BUT !!!!!!
That circuit is a bad redesign of one using Lateral mosFETs for the outputs.
It has been changed to Vertical mosFETs, probably to make it cheaper.
It is liable to blow up.
It attempts to keep a constant voltage across the gates of the output devices.
BUT !!!!!!
That circuit is a bad redesign of one using Lateral mosFETs for the outputs.
It has been changed to Vertical mosFETs, probably to make it cheaper.
It is liable to blow up.
Looks like a modushop 'pesante dissipante', 4U or 5U:
(also note the modushop packaging it is sitting on)
modushop.biz