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Old 9th August 2013, 04:03 AM   #981
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The leakage inductance shouldn't matter at amp impedances. Luckily only the leakage capacitance may have an effect on audio response, if the trafo is obscenely large.
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Old 21st August 2013, 08:06 PM   #982
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hi

really considering building one of these - great work all round :-) as ive mentioned in other threads I currently use a self trimodal design. bought some huge martin logan speakers last week and the tri isn't really cut out for driving them. was considering building myself another load invariant but having tried two of dougs designs (with huge success) perhaps its time for something else. it seems only right !
just been trawling my stores (ie huge plastic box full of components) and have found some devices that may be suitable so just wanted to check (having just moved house and blown last pennies on speakers i need to build this as cheaply as possible) if i could use these devices ...
i have 6 MJL4281AG and 6 MJL4302AG for output devices, and enough MJE15034/5 G to use for drivers.
would these be suitable?
I also am wondering what supply rail would be best. The speakers are 4r but apparently dip to 1.2r at 20Khz. They are rated to 200W.
Advice welcome
Thanks folks
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Old 22nd August 2013, 02:22 AM   #983
Holgi is offline Holgi  Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raymondo View Post
hi
i have 6 MJL4281AG and 6 MJL4302AG for output devices, and enough MJE15034/5 G to use for drivers.
would these be suitable?
Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by raymondo View Post
I also am wondering what supply rail would be best. The speakers are 4r but apparently dip to 1.2r at 20Khz. They are rated to 200W.
With speakers 4R and below to be on the safe side I'd stay around and below 45V to not exceed the trannies' SOA. This should give you enough op power.

BR,
Holgi
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Old 22nd August 2013, 12:55 PM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holgi View Post
Yes.

With speakers 4R and below to be on the safe side I'd stay around and below 45V to not exceed the trannies' SOA. This should give you enough op power.

BR,
Holgi
Thanks for the reply Holgi. Good news. I think I have suitable power supply transformer for those rails - I have a large screened toroidal with 33-0-33. So should give me about 45V rails.

Time to order some pcbs !

Thanks
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Old 30th August 2013, 07:01 AM   #985
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Default Gerber

Hi,
Does anyone have a gerber file for the honey badger of OS 's design, I'm lucky enough to have access to a milling machine of my brothers, I don't really fancy I/p all those components into an auto router....
Btw fantastic reading these design pages...
Cheers
Mike
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Old 30th August 2013, 10:11 AM   #986
AndrewT is online now AndrewT  Scotland
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The Honey Badger is a design that was commissioned by DIYaudio for inclusion in DIYaudio's retail arm.

Honey Badger belongs to DIYaudio.

You need to ask DIYaudio if they are willing to send you their IP (unless there is an agreement with OST that he retains the IP) and to take the risk of you not selling on the Gerbers to other manufacturers.
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Old 30th August 2013, 04:13 PM   #987
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Default Gerber

Ah, I see, thx for that, I can see the whole rip off problem..
Pity really that people find it necessary...
Guess I'll have to find a light box.
Mike
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Old 30th August 2013, 09:39 PM   #988
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Yes , the layout was posted since the initial design phase. You could do the
toner transfer method.

The gerber's are only for DIYA use !

OS
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Old 9th September 2013, 01:26 AM   #989
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Hi Guys,

Well I finished populating the boards and got them mounted on some heat sinks so I wanted to test them out. I don't have the power supply that I will be using with it set up yet so I hooked it up to the PS that I put together for a VSSA which is a 25-0-25VAC 600VA Antek transformer and a Mr Evil Capacitance Multiplier. This is putting out about +/-39VDC. So I hooked up the first board and brought it up nice and slow on my variac with a light bulb in line and 10R 1W resistors in place of the fuses. Everything looked good so I set the front end, adjusted the offset to 00.1mv and brought up the bias to 20mV across TP1 and TP2. Nice, looks good. So I hook up the second board and bring it up and not so good. Can't adjust the bias, can't adjust the offset. Front end looks OK. Great! Now what. So I hook up both boards side by side and start comparing. the voltages are all wrong on the drivers and bias transistors. Turns out, the jumpers that run across to the drivers have no continuity. I'm thinking maybe I just didn't get the solder mask scraped off well enough so I scraped them some more. No way, the jumper isn't connected so I just run a wire across under the board for both jumpers and problem solved. Now both boards measure the same and I can set the off set and bias, no problem. Now I'm feeling pretty good so I decide to see how it looks on a scope. I hook up the scope and with no load attached I run a sine wave through it. Now I see another problem. I get about half way up with the sine wave generator and I see the wave start clipping and the top wave has what looks like oscillation. I think maybe adding a load will help but no. I hook up an 8R dummy load and I'm still seeing the weird little oscillation on the top of the wave. The bottom is clipping but is just flat. So I hook up the other channel to the input so I can compare the waves an I see a little fuzz at the top of the input sine wave. I unhook the generator and check it and the fuzz isn't there. Only when it is hooked to the amp so that fuzz is somehow coming from the input on the amp and it is only on the top part of the wave, not the bottom.

By the way, I measured the output and it is putting out about 25VAC at the point of clipping with the 8R load attached. Both channels are acting the same.

Any ideas? have any of you guys experienced anything similar?


Thanks, Terry
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Old 9th September 2013, 01:41 AM   #990
Krisfr is offline Krisfr  United States
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Terry:

Try just working on ONE board at a time. Get one working, then the other one will be a piece of cake.

Good luck and be careful...
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