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Old 21st July 2011, 05:27 AM   #121
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Default Check out this one ....

Finished the "new one" .. (below)

red= +60V

blue= -60v

green= earth/0V

dark yellow= MUSIC - AC

pink= jumper / or top trace double sided.

I like this better than the last and can see why the full low THD of this amp might be better represented by this "style".

Comments welcome - especially Andrew T's.
To Variac - sorry about the constant changes , but this will insure a "winner" , not just another Ebay class attempt at an amp. This is commercial quality (ADCOM , LUXMAN, Harmon-kardon) similar style of layout and grounding.
OS
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Last edited by ostripper; 21st July 2011 at 05:29 AM.
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Old 21st July 2011, 07:34 AM   #122
Rob_S is offline Rob_S  United Kingdom
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Hi OS looking very good.

Is there any advantage to having a left and right board (almost a mirror), so each when mounted in the case have the inputs at one end and power connections at the other? This would keep the power supply wiring short and out of the way of the input and output, assuming these are mounted either side of a case.

But that would increase cost a little of producing two boards rather then just one.

Cheers
Rob
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Old 21st July 2011, 07:52 AM   #123
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Mirrored boards is an excellent idea...
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Old 21st July 2011, 10:14 AM   #124
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Hi,
the -ve smoothing/decoupling cap has one connection. Prior to that there is a tapping after the fuse to feed power to the collectors.
That collector feed must be manoeuvred round to tap into the capacitor -ve pin.

Can I make one last request. Yes, really the last one.
Can you add in multiple pin pitch options to all, or at very least almost all, capacitors?
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Last edited by AndrewT; 21st July 2011 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 21st July 2011, 04:27 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
Hi,
1 .the -ve smoothing/decoupling cap has one connection. Prior to that there is a tapping after the fuse to feed power to the collectors.
That collector feed must be manoeuvred round to tap into the capacitor -ve pin.

Can I make one last request. Yes, really the last one.
2.Can you add in multiple pin pitch options to all, or at very least almost all, capacitors?

1. look below , I re-routed the negative rail tap directly to the cap.

2. What I did , was to look at both mouser and digikey .... find the cheapest and most common lead spacing for all the components.

A. Electrolytics - all 7.5 , 5 , 3.5mm standard. Main decoupling = 7.5mm - 330uF@100v all the way to 1Kuf @ 63V , smaller input stage decoupling - 5mm lead space - 100uf@100v to 470uf@ 63v ..... the 2- 3.5mm electrolytics should be 22uf@ 63-100v. All caps face the same direction - cuts down on errors. I might add 10mm pitch for the big caps.
I will give a few part #'s in the BOM.

B. All the poly film caps are the most common thin 10mm ones , except for 2-7.5mm ones (input filter 220pF and the .1uf dc blocking next to the 220u NP).
All VERY common , mouser has 20 different manufacturers making them.

C.LED's can be anything , just to keep safe - or omit them.
D. Main Emitter resistor's can be the 10-12mm small ones (common - OEM) or the 22mm big ceramics stood on end or with the leads formed.

E.All the other resistors can be anything , except for a few 1/2w units (VAS emmiter R's , driver Re , fuse safety R's). Current mirror and LTP resistors should be 1% , all others 2 or 5%.

All the parts are COMMON , I would just recommend ... DON'T BUY EBAY SEMI'S !!!

I will label and finish , still open for comment's and suggestions.

OS
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Old 21st July 2011, 04:44 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_S View Post
Hi OS looking very good.

Is there any advantage to having a left and right board (almost a mirror), so each when mounted in the case have the inputs at one end and power connections at the other? This would keep the power supply wiring short and out of the way of the input and output, assuming these are mounted either side of a case.

But that would increase cost a little of producing two boards rather then just one.

Cheers
Rob
$4-700 per lot. 2 boards would be "walking the plank" , cash wise.

Having an extra 6-10" of 12-14 ga. wire going to one channel won't be too big a factor. I have a input cable going right across a trafo on my Nikko(this amp) , 0 hum ... absolute 0 ... can't even see it on a CRO , much less actually HEAR it.

OS
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Old 21st July 2011, 08:17 PM   #127
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Default Revision 2 done

Hopefully , there will not be any more cool ideas to incorporate .

Really , this is a bit different than the "standard" layout.
BTW , multiple lead pitches are on most of the film caps and electrolytics (7.5mm and 10mm) ... just about any cap will fit.

Below is what I will submit , the BOM-schematic , and any extra documentation.
I hope it will please (MOST) DIY'ers. PS , the base circuit is the EXACT same , just smaller on-board capacitances.

I plan on using this layout style on my luxman triple , too - that is how confident I am with it's merits.

OS
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Old 21st July 2011, 09:23 PM   #128
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To get the power and input connections at the same end for each side builders could mount one channel upside down. Not pretty, but it is ideal wiring wise. Sucks for bias/offset adjustments though. That's how Ashly does it:

Click the image to open in full size.

Just an idea for those that don't like the non-mirrored wiring for asymmetrical boards. I myself would be fine with it.
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Old 21st July 2011, 10:00 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormrider View Post
To get the power and input connections at the same end for each side builders could mount one channel upside down. Not pretty, but it is ideal wiring wise. Sucks for bias/offset adjustments though. That's how Ashly does it:

Just an idea for those that don't like the non-mirrored wiring for asymmetrical boards. I myself would be fine with it.

I think that is just "picky" ... just use 12 ga. "audiophile" wire (below). Even 3-400mm of it would not have much resistance/inductance.

Chassis - PS below is all set for either the DIYA AMP or the Luxman triple.
12 ga. rail wire and 14 ga. dual grounds.
OS
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Old 22nd July 2011, 04:12 AM   #130
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Will it have any speaker protection circuit? If not, for the beginners' benefit, a link to some good design like the Harmon amp's protection ckt may be quoted.

Just a suggestion.
U never know how the beginner will make errors.

Gajanan
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