diyAB Amp - The "Honey Badger"

Some amps boards have onbaord fuses. Whatever the designer had in mind. It should not be that the supply does not have its own fuses. Look how long it takes to blow a slow blow fuse, under some overcurrent conditions it could take minutes to blow. Many diy amp modules are released into the public with little to no idea what the final constructor will be doing on the PSU end. Thus the inclusion of fuses on the amp board, this is likely where the short will occur when the output transistors blow, could make very good sense.
They also protect pcb traces etc from lifting when they have to deal with the shorts. Like anyone who repairs alot of amps should be able to attest too. These tracks need all the help they can get.

So to give the circuit the best chance of least amount of fire and damage, its best to use correct size and type of fuses and the type of notion where people feel like they should GUESS matters around safety devices should be avoided

Putting in slow blow fuses where there should be fast blow fuses is irresponsible.
 
I concur to all your arguments. While I don't doubt on the HB's overall properties, I'll never understand in my life why there are that many SS amplifier designs without trustworthy overload protection.
Best regards!

I agree. I'm of the opinion that safety and all the additional safety measures like short circuit and DC protect etc. should always be added.

As to those who commenting on fuses on amp boards. You do realise that your house as a circuit breaker, so is there still a need for fuses in you design. The obvious answer is always yes.

So in a modular amplifier design like most diy amplifiers. The power supply, its own modular section, should have fuses. But they are often sized and specked differently. Why? they must deal with likely two amplifier channels and the bulk filter capacitors and more.

The amplifier modules themselves have very different over current requirements. And I see good reason why amplifier module designers add fuses to their designs.

I was disappointed that the Honey badger replacement has not taken any of these measures. Instead, the opinion is, oh well, we'll let the constructor decided for themselves what protection is any will be used.
 
The notion that a slow blow fuse will allow board traces to burn while fast blow won't is pretty ridiculous! High current traces are always oversized. On a short either fuse will blow instantly. If a fast blow fuse is installed and the amp is driven hard, have a close look at the fuse element. That discoloration is why I don't recommend them there. Having on board resistors to bypass the fuse is bad in my opinion though.

Proper overload protection can easily be added to any amplifier. There's provisions for it on the new one to easily plug it in.
 
I agree. I'm of the opinion that safety and all the additional safety measures like short circuit and DC protect etc. should always be added.

As to those who commenting on fuses on amp boards. You do realise that your house as a circuit breaker, so is there still a need for fuses in you design. The obvious answer is always yes.

So in a modular amplifier design like most diy amplifiers. The power supply, its own modular section, should have fuses. But they are often sized and specked differently. Why? they must deal with likely two amplifier channels and the bulk filter capacitors and more.

The amplifier modules themselves have very different over current requirements. And I see good reason why amplifier module designers add fuses to their designs.

I was disappointed that the Honey badger replacement has not taken any of these measures. Instead, the opinion is, oh well, we'll let the constructor decided for themselves what protection is any will be used.

I don't want no stupid glass fuses on my amp , they become current
"chokepoints". I might want something better. look at the Pass 10k$ amps.
Or even a 45K$ luxman , no fuses on any PCB.

What is the issue with cheap fuse blocks between amp and PS ??
And yes , they should decide on FAR superior external protection.
Why external ?? Imagine if the relay or SS MOSFET becomes obsolete.
Or if one wants something better than primitive VI limiters.

Each to their own.
Go buy a Chinese amp kit with no docs and fake parts.

OS
 
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I don't want no stupid glass fuses on my amp , they become current
"chokepoints". I might want something better. look at the Pass 10k$ amps.
Or even a 45K$ luxman , no fuses on any PCB.

What is the issue with cheap fuse blocks between amp and PS ??
And yes , they should decide on FAR superior external protection.
Why external ?? Imagine if the relay or SS MOSFET becomes obsolete.
Or if one wants something better than primitive VI limiters.

Each to their own.
Go buy a Chinese amp kit with no docs and fake parts.

OS

these cheap Chinese amps sells like hotcakes in Manila, no documentations, but sell they do....on local FB user forums, we are having a field day answering questions and requests for assistance, we have come up with a standard answer, "go ask the seller"........:cool::eek:
 
Not the case for the new design. NJWxxxx at 65V @ 7A fuses and
MT-200 /55V @ 10A fuses.

Big one ,I blew fuses on 2R subs - DC protect came on .. nothing burns.
Forgot the NFB wires on the "little one". DC came on ... oops !
Better amps , better design .... it seems the fuses are the VI's :D
Blew the 10A's multiple times

I'm porting this type "Slewmaster" reliability to the new amp.
I'm also focusing on JUST the amp.
PS - a protection header is included on the new one. And , both
IPS options are "clip ready" - clip all day...


The store needs some dedicated comprehensive (external) protection.
I had the PIC controlled SS relay version ... cool. It even allowed the
soft start to integrate with it. Thermal protection , too.
You could program the soft start timing , led indicator color ... all the params
for the "trip points" ... through a USB cable and loading the PIC with new
code. When I dropped out 4 years ago , it was even discussed to log
the protection circuits operation.

The heck with 1970's VI limiters.

Because of this forums "fear" toward SMD. I have 50 X 120mm empty space
beneath the removable input card going un - used.

I DO care , even a "safety" chapter in the guides.
No BS designs or output from me or the other contributing members.
OS
 
my first honey badger build went up in smoke, the owner scraped it...

he must have liked it so much that he pushed to amp to its limit, smoke.....
the amp never had a chance....
many users will never appreciate the value of sensible use....
any sensible user would have known, but he was not one of them...

in my part of the pond, January 2 is a brisk and hectic day more most shops, as many amps that went up in smoke the day before are brought in for repairs, good business i would say..... :D
 
I don't want no stupid glass fuses on my amp , they become current
"chokepoints". I might want something better. look at the Pass 10k$ amps.
Or even a 45K$ luxman , no fuses on any PCB.

What is the issue with cheap fuse blocks between amp and PS ??
And yes , they should decide on FAR superior external protection.
Why external ?? Imagine if the relay or SS MOSFET becomes obsolete.
Or if one wants something better than primitive VI limiters.

Each to their own.
Go buy a Chinese amp kit with no docs and fake parts.

OS

Not the case for the new design. NJWxxxx at 65V @ 7A fuses and
MT-200 /55V @ 10A fuses.

Big one ,I blew fuses on 2R subs - DC protect came on .. nothing burns.
Forgot the NFB wires on the "little one". DC came on ... oops !
Better amps , better design .... it seems the fuses are the VI's :D
Blew the 10A's multiple times

I'm porting this type "Slewmaster" reliability to the new amp.
I'm also focusing on JUST the amp.
PS - a protection header is included on the new one. And , both
IPS options are "clip ready" - clip all day...


The store needs some dedicated comprehensive (external) protection.
I had the PIC controlled SS relay version ... cool. It even allowed the
soft start to integrate with it. Thermal protection , too.
You could program the soft start timing , led indicator color ... all the params
for the "trip points" ... through a USB cable and loading the PIC with new
code. When I dropped out 4 years ago , it was even discussed to log
the protection circuits operation.

The heck with 1970's VI limiters.

Because of this forums "fear" toward SMD. I have 50 X 120mm empty space
beneath the removable input card going un - used.

I DO care , even a "safety" chapter in the guides.
No BS designs or output from me or the other contributing members.
OS

i am talking about deliberate shorting of speaker cables when music is playing...

many many years ago there was this Mark Levinson amp that was used for welding two plates, the amp survived that and played on after, this is an area of diy i think that is worth exploring, more than the quest for ppm distortions...imho...
 
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And Emotiva (And I believe Schiit) have it. They use the PIC , and specify
both short term and destructive SOA in the code. Their different models
are code specific per device. If any of their amps come back for factory service
the fault is even logged.
Just seen this on the Schiit amps. Star Trek class A/AB protection plus
service. I can easily "whup" them in base performance , marketing and
support - they are groundbreaking.

I NOW know what to use Kicad for !!
I am about to put a SIP3 on my Vbe , I want remote control bias - fast
warmup - low bias standby. Also , coded custom SOA V/I protection.
OS
 
there has got to be a way for typical diy'er like me to avail of such...
we have learned here that distortions at hf are influenced by such things as coils...
so you can just guess what happens when music plays in our speakers which contains a lot of other coils....the voice coil itself is one....

so this quest for the ever vanishing distortions can be put aside at certain point and look at other ways to make our amps bullet proof...
 
so instead of running after ppm distortions, how about designing for users who would love to see their amps destroyed instead? i would love to see them frustrated for a change....

No , I want to see our class AB amp get audiophile reviews AND have PPM.
If it is not PPM enough , me and Dadod will make a better IPS. Hah !
If it needs more H2 , maybe the Borg can tap ASKA. I know these tricks.
I'm getting old ...
I want to shame OEM's and high-end with this one. Show that the "villagers"
have put the pitchforks down.

OS
 
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OEM's employed people to design amps for them, the difference between them and you is that you are not employed by OEM's, or maybe these engineers earn a lot more...

but in the end, people like Leach, Pass and Cordell are much appreciated for their contributions, and so can you....money i think is not a great motivator...
 
If you want reviewers to review, I think you should try to get the attention of Steve Guttenberg who does "The Audiophiliac" on You Tube. He actually pitched the Amp Camp Amp kit twice - and gave it an great review. Since he has introduced kit as an option, and has given stellar reviews. He's the guy. This youtube review actually got me to buy an ACA, and now has me here looking at Wolverine as my next move!

COMPARISON TEST: Nelson Pass Amp Camp Amp (kit), Schiit Aegir, First Watt J2 and... - YouTube

Robert built the Nelson Pass designed $327 Class A Amp Camp Amp - YouTube