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#1 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
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Quote:
Correction to original post. I found out that 20 amp fuses are being used in single recepticles and the A.C. company put in a 50 amp fuse/breaker, split into two 25amp fuses/that are connected so as to split the protection. 15 amp max and they came and said it was a 30 split over two fusebox recepticles, which would've been o.k., at 15 amp fuses in each box recepticle, but it's really 50 amp fuse split into 25 amps in each box recepticle, which is way over the limit. Everything in my room runs hot in all outlets. I also found a 60 split over two box recepticles and seperate 20amp fuses in 5 single fusebox recepticles Then the inspector comes and says they used a 30 split into two 15's, for the A.C. I complained because all my gear blew and now know why, by how hot everything get's in any outlet, but too late. I had to use a flashlight, as they used the same color for the 50 split as the 15 single fuses. My illness has really done a job on my eyesight and I'm very nightblind and photo-sensitive. I can't believe it blew everything in my room. I must move on and I desperately need a licensed electrician to look at the fusebox and write up how it caused this, so A.C. company hopefully get's honest and reimburses me for my equipment. I had the oulet extremely protected for my gear, and even the phone power convertor/supply for the phone is hot to the touch running just it into a belkin surge protector and a different outlet, so all outlets are affected. Please, if a licensed electrician can diagnose this in writing and do all needed repairs, as the kitchen and bathroom are always blowing fuses too, and it's a fire hazard, I would be so grateful, as I'm too sick to get a book and do. I have experience in this field, mostly hands off and theory, from 2 years of E.E. college credits, but am too sick to get a book and do. I also need a seperate 30 amp split into two 15's, as should be done and routed/wired for use in new outlet and gangbox I'm buying, as a single power source for high amp digital plug input and for the high amp analog plug input. I know going to the pole is the best route, and would want done this way, if allowed here. It needs done anyways and I desperately need hired help experienced in home theater and making single power outlet as my two source's of power for new and last gear I can afford. Any licensed electricians interested in doing the work and making some money, please I.M. me and I will give you my phone number. Sincerely, Paul |
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#2 |
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...truth seeker...
diyAudio Member
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Can you tell us where you are? Any volunteer would be wise to SEE the situation.
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...call me Ed...Special Ed... EnABL kit http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/119852-enabl-kit.html DCB1 parts http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-...ml#post2361098 |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
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Quote:
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
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I'm back!!! I wanted to add that the Sony still has power, and how strange only the eq went. The bluerayplayer got so hot, don't know if fan ever worked, that it needs repaired, Thank God for extended warrenties. Then the B&K blows all channels when on at barely audible level, but plays at 10% volume at full volume level and clear? I've put all away and will not risk Onkyo until fixed and seperate line run. The B&K even has a 10 amp protective fuse in it and it didn't blow. All so strange. It just made a bunch of relay clicking sounds and then no music, until turned way up. I'm thinking it will be easier than I think to fix, and then I can biamp with the Onkyo. Wish I was well enough to do. I'm worried about all the hdmi, coaxial, and optical lines being ruined and the computer that the Onkyo needs for Blueray use, etc. It never got set up right by the Staples' techs and I hope I can get it going, after power is fixed, without it ruining my new amp. The Onkyo runs with a multimedia center computer and has windows 7. Boy, have times changed since I went to college 2 years for E.E. It ran on protected, but bad outlet. It's off til electricity is fixed. I'm hoping the fusebox is o.k. and it just needs some parts and set up right, but the A.C. needs to go to the pole, or we will need an updated panelboard for much higher rated fuses required for the A.C. We really need a licensed electrician to do the work who can write up the problem, in case the A.C. company cover's my blown equipment and all work now needed done. Also, an electrician who has run seperate lines/power supplies, for audio and digital equipment to run my seperate line, to either the pole or fixed or new fusebox, with a split 20 amp fuse or a 30, if run to the box, split into two 15 amp fuses, all going to power the same two plug inputs in new gangbox and all new high end parts for the plug inputs in my room, using much heavier gauge wiring, 10 G, to route to the pole or fusebox. I couldn't believe the inspector lied to us. I miss music so much and looking at my B&K just makes me sad. I never saw it coming and never expected so much damage. It's so strange how the eq's went, then 90% of B&K's power, and all were protected. I wouldn't be so upset if I weren't so sick and I'm not young anymore. Thanks, Paul.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Norwich, UK
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I've got to say that from what I've read about and what I've seen of US domestic electrical installations, some of it is truly shocking. It's bad enough that you guys have twice the current and 4 times the power loss in the wiring. There is no way splitting one load onto two breakers would be allowed over here.
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#6 | |
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49 - for the 16th time
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I'm wondering if the situation is being communicated accurately?
__________________
"You can't always get what you want" K. Richards/M. Jagger *** "Next time I will know some things better" Zen Mod |
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#7 |
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...truth seeker...
diyAudio Member
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paulieg888,
Sounds as though you need to devote some resources to getting a licensed electrician to your home now....with more urgency and a better response time than this forum can provide. Speculation from here is not going to solve your problem.
__________________
...call me Ed...Special Ed... EnABL kit http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/119852-enabl-kit.html DCB1 parts http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-...ml#post2361098 Last edited by Ed LaFontaine; 8th July 2011 at 06:17 PM. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
Get a PRO in NOW! Something very bad going on here and it is nothing to do with 15a or 20a breakers - that doesn't blow up equipment. It would help if you simply measure Line to Neutral and Line to Earth. If something like a DVD player is running physically hot, it is pulling hundreds of extra watts! All smells very fishy to me .... |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)
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I fully wired over 100 houses , main service box and all. Down here in the south , most have no ground (pre 71'). But even a lot of the newer houses , if you get a cheap 3 neon grounded tester , have reversed common/hot. A whole lot of bad wiring. (had to fix my last 3 rentals - could not plug my PC's / audio in). TEST the outlets first with the $5 tester -
IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. - E-Z Check® Circuit Testers ![]() As far as things getting hot and blowing up , the fools might of wired you up for 220-240v in a standard outlet. ![]() double yikes. Of course you could DMM an outlet to ascertain this. It really does suck in the USA (wiring wise) . This PC, my shop , and A/V equipment are the only properly grounded things on this property.OS
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Mongrel website , always current and updated : http://67.248.209.21/D%3A/WEBSITE/ |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I suspect the house is very old and has several panels perhaps on a floor by floor basis. I lived in a place that had very strange wiring built back in 1915 which even had a fuse in the neutral lead in each of the panels feeding the respective fuse - and a knife switch to disconnect power to that primitive "load center." Open neutral depending the load balance on each phase could (and did) result in at least one instance of 230V appearing on a 115V branch. The electrical inspector required that those neutral fuses be jumpered out.
Note that the local utility is not legally responsible for the integrity of wiring in a private residence so you have no recourse with them unless the pole transformer neutral connection (or drop or meter if they own it) was the actual culprit. In most cases I believe this would be the responsibility of the property owner.
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