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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: England
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I thought about it once, but then thought again. Last edited by Boscoe; 3rd June 2011 at 08:44 AM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: ROMANIA ,
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..... know the truth only with a hammer
Last edited by alex mm; 3rd June 2011 at 09:03 AM. |
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#3 |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Torpoint
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One way to test them is to build a little test rig and see if they survive at close to their expected SOAR.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Can't say for the pictures you show.
I have been had on two occasions in the past (both times buying off ebay). As noted above, there are two ways you can gain confidence: -1- Build a test jig and drive the devices at a good fraction of their rated current. At the same time test the DC Hfe as you wind up the current. This tests bonding and die current limits, and allows you to plot the DC Hfe as a function of collector current. You should find the HFe is very similar to that published for them (usually greater Hfe). I found that one batch of fake devices firstly has low Hfe, and secondly failed at a small fraction of their rated current. I also found that some of the fake devices had NO die in them at all - have a photo somewhere - I was laughing so hard when I found that I almost forgot what I paid for them. As part of this crank up the voltage such that the devices are operating somewhere near max dissipation at a fair VCE. Obviously you will need a heatsink etc. Remember to keep the device inside it's SOA, but don't be shy to really test it. If the above are OK, then I suggest you are OK. If you are worried, and especially if a device fails: -2- Crack a couple of samples open. Most of the fake devices I had used very small dies. I also cracked open a "known good device" to compare. (seems stupid, but I really wanted to know what I was looking at) Last edited by googlyone; 3rd June 2011 at 10:25 AM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Or do it my way: Take a homemade amplifier, install devices in question, then give the amp hell and see if they survive.
That is use a inefficint speaker like a 4 ohm high power car subwoofer driver and turn the amp right up to clipping, if it survives this treatment, the devices are likely genuine. When i got hit with fakes, i was unable to get the amp to work at all, either it just kept sticking to either rail, ignored the Vbe multiplier and drawing 5 Amps or it just failed instantly on power on.
__________________
The point of life is to build atleast one audio amplifier before you die. |
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#6 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Torpoint
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Quote:
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#7 |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Torpoint
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As a lot of fake transistors use inferior dies. Try the Vce test.
From the datasheet of the suspect device ascertain the Vce(max). With a reasonable resistor (say 1K) in series connect just below this Vce across the Collector / Emitter with nothing connected to the Base. An inferior die may fail causing current to flow through the device. A good transistor will survive with no current flowing. If that works measure Hfe. If Vce and Hfe seem OK then the device is probably genuine. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
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I have had output devices fail in my diy amplifiers, only needed to replace the outputs and the amp was alive again.
__________________
The point of life is to build atleast one audio amplifier before you die. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Milan
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Quote:
and emitter resistors as well. Many times I have seen them damaged on power amps with shorted OPs. I will not recomend this brutality in any amplifier that I care of. Last edited by effebi; 3rd June 2011 at 11:33 AM. Reason: addedd comment |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Well if a amp cant take that kinda brutality, its not a good or reliable amp to begin with.
Just my
__________________
The point of life is to build atleast one audio amplifier before you die. |
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