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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
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They should be connected between the base and collector as on PCB
(if they are necessary at all
__________________
Free Schematic and Service Manual downloads www.audio-circuit.dk, Company: www.dupont-audio.com, Joint venture: www.DupontMantra.com |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oklahoma USA
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Looks like a pretty typical design.
I will say that if you get 300W from only 2 devices per rail, you'll be pretty lucky. I guess you might with a higher voltage 75-90V rails but you had better have a hefty heat sink and fan to cool those poor transistors. Good luck, Chris
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The best audio is clean audio! |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: searching...
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Diode,
I believe the amp uses 4 devices per rail. Thats 8 ops per channel. Q10 to Q13 and Q14 to Q17. I also think that C6 polarity on the schematic and pcb is wrong. Am I correct? Or just sleepy.... JojoD |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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JojoD818 got a point!
C6 has to be reversed = "+" to GND and "-" to the -15VDC, otherwise "PUF"
__________________
Free Schematic and Service Manual downloads www.audio-circuit.dk, Company: www.dupont-audio.com, Joint venture: www.DupontMantra.com |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: searching...
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It seems this amp has a lot of errors. And I haven't even started yet.
JojoD |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Philippines
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JoJo
At the power supply given you could expect only 80 to 90 watts at 8 ohms and about 130 watts at 4 ohms.To achieve 300 watts you should have at least + and - 82 volts DC. MGR |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Left Coast
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"It seems this amp has a lot of errors. "
yep. The longer I lokk, the odder it looks. For instance it looks like nfb is applied to both the inverting and non-inverting inputs. Add to that the compensation caos (at least I think that's what they are intended be) in ops being possibly in the wrong spot, the rails bearingr little relation to the power implied to the name (unless tha's "music power" x 2 channels), and I would definately make SPICE simulation of it (just to see if it remotely works) before I spent a penny on components. My interesst lies in the idea of using an opamp as an input stage. The notion is it would make the unit simpler to construct and reduce the pcb "real estate" So far it seems the components that need to be added to get it to work with the discrete stages nearly cancel out the advantages I had imagined. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oklahoma USA
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If I read it right, C6 is the filter for the zener on the negative rail..... Yes, it is backwards! The posative goes to ground and negative to the negative rail.
My mistake, I was sleeping. I see the 4 outputs now..... Yup! It should do. Still, a large H.S. is in order and maybe a fan!!!!! Chris
__________________
The best audio is clean audio! |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: searching...
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Maybe I'll just have to find another amp project that uses opamp at the frontend and with a "more realistic" supply rail that can deliver >300 watts.
Any ideas? JojoD |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Vác, Hungary
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I have only one schematic, but it contains no opamp:
310W/4ohms There is another one, with opamp, but lower output power: 275W/4ohms Sajti |
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