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Old 21st March 2011, 01:30 AM   #11
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I will be much happier if it just needs cleaning and drying out.

I pulled it apart today and cleaned the affected amp board. There was some "ash" on the collector of Q24 (one of the 2SC3281 outputs ), and some dried "residue" between the transitor and the heatsink, but no sign of any other damage ( no scorch marks, burned resistors, etc. ).

Thanks again for all the input. Fingers crossed.

Scott...
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Old 24th March 2011, 10:10 PM   #12
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Any luck? jer
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Old 24th March 2011, 10:19 PM   #13
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I know white vinegar is good for cleaning out the cat pee.

Perhaps clean the affected area with vinegar, and then wash it off with rubbing alcohol, and dry throughly.

Please dont shoot the cat, or you cant have a "no animals were harmed " in your disclaimer
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Old 24th March 2011, 10:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geraldfryjr View Post
I'll give an example,
I got tired of the master slider on my mixer cutting out so rather than taking the whole thing apart again I decided to pour some isopropynal alcohol in it to clean the slider.

Well this worked, but as the solvent started to flow around all the other components and opamps all kinds of nasty pops ,clicks and noises started to come out of it and rendered the master section useless.

Since I run my amps wide open it became very annoying and had become a drangerous situation to my speakers and I had to shut every thing down.

It worried me that the the silder may need to be replaced as somtimes this can happen, only I wasn't up to it .

The next day after it dried out, all was well and there was no noise and it is now dead silent like it is supposed to be.

However I do needed to replace the slider as it still works and doesn't cut out in the middle of it's travel any more.

I do not suggest at all in doing what I did, as it was late at night and I was being lazy.
It is quite a job to get it apart and is fairly heavy. jer
Standard isopropyl is 30% water. even 100% solutions wil cool and condense atmospheric moisture as they evaporate. Silicone based cleaners , such as radip shack's tuner cleaners are better for controls , especially when active (live). Using the right stuff matters.


PS - vinegar will rot the copper patterns ... I use Vinegar/salt/H2o2 to actually etch the stuff.
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Last edited by ostripper; 24th March 2011 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 25th March 2011, 12:05 AM   #15
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Thanks for the tip Didnt know that about vinegar, and rotting copper.

We had a stray cat do a pee spree on my work clothes on the porch, Got tired of throwing away work clothes.
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Old 25th March 2011, 04:23 AM   #16
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Sunday is re-assembly day. Everything is scrubbed clean and bone dry.
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Old 25th March 2011, 04:38 AM   #17
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Quietrol , a very good product had rouge in it ,can get it at some music stores, for consoles,it cleans and lubs the sliders,pots ect. BEST I found,spray it in and move full travel about ten times and your done !

Last edited by noSmoking; 25th March 2011 at 04:41 AM. Reason: remember name
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Old 25th March 2011, 05:49 AM   #18
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Oh yes ,ostripper, I'm well aware of the repocussions of using isopropyl achohol.
CRC is much better formulated than tuner cleaner.
Tuner cleaner also leaves a thin film of oil and this oil attracts dust and dirt and can cause extra wear on the resistive element if allowed to build up.

But the cold effect is much worse with a spray cleaner.
I have ruined a few controls in my day using spray cleaners improperly.
Unfortunately the problem I have with my board is cigarette tar as my friend used to smoke 5 packs a day.

You can't even imagine how P.O.ed I was when I saw its condition after not seeing it for quite some time.
Nothing worked (i mean nothing) but one or two channels and marginaly at that.
My hands were literaly black from grabbing the sides and carrying it and loading it into his truck.

I competely stripped it down and soaked all 522 knobs and washed the case with ammonia, as I found that this was the only thing that would disolve the tar.

Being that ammonia is corrosive to some electronic components I used isopropynal and a syringe to inject it into the controls and switchs, and, OMG you should have seen the black rivers flowing.
I waited till these rivers were clear before I started to swash the controls back and forth.

All 200+ 1/4" phone plugs and cables got the same treatment and all of the jacks had to be swabbed out.
I really need to do it again as it is still not perfect and gives me problems from time to time.

A few of the controls on some of the chanels quit working altogether ,but, this is not an issue at moment since I have 32 channels to work with.
The first 16 are critical as they are assigned to the 16-track tape machine.

It took the better part of a month, 1 1/2 bottles of bo-peep ,2 1/2 large bottles of isopropynal and 3 cans of CRC to get it functional and working order, on top of the ribbon cable problems that these boards inherently have.

Would I do it again?
You betcha, as it is one beutiful piece when its working right.
Anyone else would have scrapped it and bought a new one.

So let this be a lesson for anyone who smokes around their audio and electronic equipment. jer

Last edited by geraldfryjr; 25th March 2011 at 05:58 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 14th April 2011, 08:52 PM   #19
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Default Just as I had feared

Well, I got it all cleaned up and put back together. No visible signs of burnt components. But look what the left channel does to a perfectly good square wave:
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File Type: jpg Aragon 8008BB Left Channel.jpg (54.3 KB, 68 views)
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Old 14th April 2011, 11:25 PM   #20
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OOH, that don't look so good! jer
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