I need help building a 200w mono amp that uses 2 * TDA2030 ic's and 4 bipolar transistors at the output stage. The project link is below:
I would like to know the wattage of the resistors I can use. Also can I replace the Russian transistors some common equivalents? If so, which ones? If anyone out there has built this amp, does it actually sound good.
200W audio amplifier
P.S. If you think you have a circuit of a better amp i.e. 200w/ch into 8 ohms stereo(if possible), please post it.
I would like to know the wattage of the resistors I can use. Also can I replace the Russian transistors some common equivalents? If so, which ones? If anyone out there has built this amp, does it actually sound good.
200W audio amplifier
P.S. If you think you have a circuit of a better amp i.e. 200w/ch into 8 ohms stereo(if possible), please post it.
OMG!!
The Kemo amp is a bridge application from the TDA2030 data sheet, with Class B dumper transistors added for higher current output. There is no way it is 200W RMS, not even into 4 ohms. It'll sound like s**t too. If you must build it, you could use TIP2955/TIP3055 or better TIP142/147 transistors.
well ontoba ... lets try to focus on what the f*** is going wrong here ....
1--- Jaycee probably made a mistake since tip 142-147 are darlingtons and will not work in as direct replacement cause...
a) they need less drive ...... droping them in will overdrive and boom
b) darligtons are unstable one way or another placing them to work in such an aplication and with out any thermals or bias arround them is simply an expolosion waiting to happen
c) changing to bigger transistors only makes the circuit more tollerant to lower load and higher currents but will not increase the actuall power
2--- 2050 is a nice idea but for some reason it is never done before ( bell rings saying that i tryied once in the past but couldnt make it work in such a configuration ) also there is not such a schematic in the internet
3--- 2052 is out of the question since its not drop in its heptawatt not pentawatt 7 pins not 5 and also never seen a 2052 with outside transistors
and finally our sugestions will go to someone that is simpy power horny and with out any understanding what it takes to make a 200w working amplifier ...
so we need to be carefull on how and what we place as our sugestions
friendly regards sakis
1--- Jaycee probably made a mistake since tip 142-147 are darlingtons and will not work in as direct replacement cause...
a) they need less drive ...... droping them in will overdrive and boom
b) darligtons are unstable one way or another placing them to work in such an aplication and with out any thermals or bias arround them is simply an expolosion waiting to happen
c) changing to bigger transistors only makes the circuit more tollerant to lower load and higher currents but will not increase the actuall power
2--- 2050 is a nice idea but for some reason it is never done before ( bell rings saying that i tryied once in the past but couldnt make it work in such a configuration ) also there is not such a schematic in the internet
3--- 2052 is out of the question since its not drop in its heptawatt not pentawatt 7 pins not 5 and also never seen a 2052 with outside transistors
and finally our sugestions will go to someone that is simpy power horny and with out any understanding what it takes to make a 200w working amplifier ...
so we need to be carefull on how and what we place as our sugestions
friendly regards sakis
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Umm, yes sakis.
Seem that my post is ambiguous.
It is too shhort.
I recomend to use only 2050 or 2052 without buffer and may has enough power compared with buffered 2030.
I ever built 2050 in bridge mode (using opamp to invert second input) and its sound already very loud for single 8 ohm speaker. 2052 not sounded better than 2050. TDA729x are troubled.
To reach 200W in safer classAB, (only fuse protection, without SOA) it need at least 4pair to get reliable operation (if 200W isn't for home and operated full power as PA), I see only 3pair in OS schematic. And for bridge mode it need 2x4pair.
ADD: With darlington it may fail if reach clip, except it using very low feedback and slower driver (not only oscillation problem).
Seem that my post is ambiguous.
It is too shhort.
I recomend to use only 2050 or 2052 without buffer and may has enough power compared with buffered 2030.
I ever built 2050 in bridge mode (using opamp to invert second input) and its sound already very loud for single 8 ohm speaker. 2052 not sounded better than 2050. TDA729x are troubled.
To reach 200W in safer classAB, (only fuse protection, without SOA) it need at least 4pair to get reliable operation (if 200W isn't for home and operated full power as PA), I see only 3pair in OS schematic. And for bridge mode it need 2x4pair.
ADD: With darlington it may fail if reach clip, except it using very low feedback and slower driver (not only oscillation problem).
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