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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Hi,
somebody already asked about this amp in the chipamp forum Has any one tried this l20 - 350 watt amp but the thread was not moved or reopened, so I am asking basically the same question: Has anyone tried this particular mono amplifier or something similar? What does it look like to you? here is the ebay-item number to one of the auctions: 120646650832 it looks like this: ( ebay-seller: along1986090 ) (I am posting a picture of this because eBay auctions do not stay online very long and I often ran into threads with dead eBay links which is frustrating) Any thoughts on this one? Usable with a good PSU and some cap replacements? thanks regards meko |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Hmm, the amp seems not so popular
alright... well, among many other amps he also sells some assembled "NAP 140" clone boards: along1986090 items - Get great deals on 2pcs Classic NAP 140 CLONE mono power amplifier board items on eBay Stores! I'd be using the supposedly good gigawork NAP140s, but they only deliver 70 watts into 8 Ohms. I need a rather clean dual mono power amp set with approx. 100...200W into 8ohms per channel. any suggestions? thanks again |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit, born and raised in the netherlands.
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looks like an interesting nap140 clone. I would guess someone has bought this and tried it.. I may be the first!
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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I have bought a couple of preamps from them and am impressed with the company and the products. Very good service and very good value. Have not experienced the amps.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Richmond, B.C CANADA
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I just finished building an amp using the L20 boards with dual Plitron 40-0-40V @ 2.75 amps and 6 x 10K uF capacitors per channel in the power supply. I also used a soft start module and a speaker protection relay board for start-up. I had pipe dreams of using peltier devices which would allow me to get by with less heat sinks but my experiments with peltier devices were failures. So I have a thermal switch set to 85 degrees Celsius that will cut the AC if the temp by it reaches 85. So far the heat sinks have got quite warm but not too hot to touch. The maximum length of time I have had it on is 2 hours. I don't feel like tempting the fates by leaving it on.
How does it sound? So far quite good. It was built to replace an aging Yamaha M-70 that been in the shop 3 times in the last 2 years. My math says it was cheaper to build than repair. The L20 to my ears sounds slightly more detailed than the M-70 so I am a happy camper about this project although I should have had bigger heat sinks. I am going to try to insert a picture of this project. My handy work is not so handy! I call this project the DB amp, DB stands for Dog's Breakfast in honour of ny chaotic wiring.
__________________
Richard Jenkins |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Hi,
looks still nice!! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Thank you for your use me to design the amplifier.
. If you have any questions, you can mail. ljm_ljm@foxmail.com L20 in constant updates, to the stability of the better version, and better performance. The current version is VER 9. L20 USES blue PCB materials. Blue is genuine. Notice that there is some other color is probably pirated products. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Hi,
Thanks, i bought this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/200723842622?...84.m1439.l2648 best regards, and thanks for your help. I probably will email you. Are 2 of these: Aluminum HEAT SINK FOR LM3886/TDA7293 Amplifier Board professional QUALITY METAL Radiator 140*81*44mm,0.48kg heavy enough? |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cambridge, MA
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Quote:
-nelson |
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