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Old 7th May 2012, 09:36 PM   #21
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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But I thought each channel needs positive and negative feeds.
My power suppy doesn't have a negative output. That was why I needed to use 2 for the 2 channels.

Cool.
Srinath.
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Old 7th May 2012, 10:40 PM   #22
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Smile more ways to rome....

Hi,

The sport is of coarse with little or no money to produce the best hifi (sounding) or high-end power amp.

I like that too!

With what you have " on the shelf" is ALWAYS an option. There is no good or bad ,,,,,it's what you decide/like.
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Old 7th May 2012, 10:48 PM   #23
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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I could open the power supply and see if the transformer has a - and + tap that they only use 1 of and if they do I may just use 1 transformer for the whole amp. the power supply is capable of 1300 watts, something like 27 amp at 42vdc. I am powering a measly 700. Well I'll open up and see.
Thanks.
Srinath.
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Old 8th May 2012, 09:45 AM   #24
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Smile L20 needs amperes

Hi,

350 watt in 4 ohm meens amperes needed. i bought 2x antek inc 500VA toroidal
24 volt and 21,9 ampere per toroidal. 2x AS2442 parallel use.

Antek - Your reliable source of transformers, power supplies, and more.


The L20 uses max. 20 ampere per channel. So your transformator is more than capable. It meens control over the speaker. it will sound better and more precise. (read; more control)
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Old 8th May 2012, 01:15 PM   #25
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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You used 24 volt trafo, that would be just about 42vdc after you rectify it.
I am doing 42vdc power supply, I may open it and check the trafo. I may have a 24 too, though mine isn't a toroid cos I dont have that center bolt that I can see.
Thanks much marcoben.

Cool.
Srinath.
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Old 8th May 2012, 01:22 PM   #26
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Default hallo Srinath

You are right.....mine will be after rectification 24 volt x 1,41= 34 volt ....so a bit lower as you.

Yours is good...mine is good to.

best regards,

Good luck with the building!

Marco
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Old 8th May 2012, 01:27 PM   #27
srinath is offline srinath  United States
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Grrr Multiply by sq root of 2, I for some stupid reason multiplied by sq root of 3 ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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Old 7th October 2012, 03:29 PM   #28
xslavic is offline xslavic  Moldova
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The amp is not working
assembled correctly but nothing comes out
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Old 7th October 2012, 06:28 PM   #29
rfj5106 is offline rfj5106  United States
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Richmond, B.C CANADA
Default Check list:

1) Check voltages in power supply and continuity to boards
2) Check continuity from input jacks to board (Screw down terminal boxes can look connected but are not!)
3) Check for continuity from output to speaker terminals
4) Check for continuity in grounds

If you smelled smoke when you plugged it in, you may have had a short in output and a resistor burned up. Look for a blackened resistor on board
__________________
Richard Jenkins
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Old 9th June 2013, 01:38 AM   #30
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Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Default L20 V9

I have built this amp as two monoblocks and posted elsewhere on diy audio. I had nothing but trouble initially but after buying 2 more boards have finally got the amps working and 99% finished in their cases. They sound outstandingly good and in some ways I prefer them to my 300B reference monoblock amps (60W/ch.). I built them with speaker protection modules as I still don't trust them fully. However I have about 20 hours on them without problems. My problem is I have 73V rails due to my mains voltage being high and wrong selection of toroids. David.
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