Nad 3020 Issues - from a newbie

[paradiddle]

Hello,

I have a few problems with my 3020, wondering if people could help.

1) Right channel is cutting out. My inputs put might be the problem on the horizonal flap on the back. The right input cradles for photo and tuner are moving a little... although the problem is among all input devices except Tape in.

Could this be a simple soldier job, or something much more elaborate?

2) When I start up the amp, it takes about 3-8 seconds for sound to come through. Is this because my power supply 9or something else) is going or is it just normal?

3) Where can I find the square buttons? I lost one and am looking to replace it.

Thanks for looking and for any help you can provide.

cheers

[Ian Finch]

Hi paradiiddle
This was a popular amp, have you used the SEARCH button on the home page? There will be several threads on this amp already that may answer your queries.

However, seeing your switched inputs have a common fault, you might look at common connections like the earth for a break or a bad switch selector contact at even the tape monitor position which is also in common. It may not even actually originate in the inputs but in the amplifier or protection switches instead. As a preliminary check, measure the DC voltage at the outputs with no input connected. It should not exceed 40mV or so. If you read zero or something significantly greater, you do have a problem.

[planet10]

Originally Posted by paradiddle

3) Where can I find the square buttons? I lost one and am looking to replace it.

They need to come from a scrapped NAD. How many are you missing? I can't recall whether i have any left from sending some off to a fellow in Greece.

dave

[AEIOU]

You should be able to get spare/replacement parts from NAD. Have you contacted them directly? And while you are at it, order a service manual for your unit.
NAD Electronics :: Parts and Service
Yes, it may just be a loose solder connection. A soldier is a person in the military.

Originally Posted by paradiddle

Hello,

I have a few problems with my 3020, wondering if people could help.

1) Right channel is cutting out. My inputs put might be the problem on the horizonal flap on the back. The right input cradles for photo and tuner are moving a little... although the problem is among all input devices except Tape in.

Could this be a simple soldier job, or something much more elaborate?

2) When I start up the amp, it takes about 3-8 seconds for sound to come through. Is this because my power supply 9or something else) is going or is it just normal?

3) Where can I find the square buttons? I lost one and am looking to replace it.

Thanks for looking and for any help you can provide.

cheers

[paradiddle]

Originally Posted by planet10

They need to come from a scrapped NAD. How many are you missing? I can't recall whether i have any left from sending some off to a fellow in Greece.

I'm missing just one button. Could I paypal you for yours?

Originally Posted by AEIOU

You should be able to get spare/replacement parts from NAD. Have you contacted them directly? And while you are at it, order a service manual for your unit.
NAD Electronics :: Parts and Service
Yes, it may just be a loose solder connection. A soldier is a person in the military.

I did... unsuccessfully though. Good point!

Originally Posted by Ian Finch

However, seeing your switched inputs have a common fault, you might look at common connections like the earth for a break or a bad switch selector contact at even the tape monitor position which is also in common. It may not even actually originate in the inputs but in the amplifier or protection switches instead. As a preliminary check, measure the DC voltage at the outputs with no input connected. It should not exceed 40mV or so. If you read zero or something significantly greater, you do have a problem.

I tried searching... I don't think anyone else in this forum specifically has this problem. I did find a couple button posts... but didn't want to jack them.

I'll try that with my tester tonight. My amp is now working again (I wiggled everything until it worked... and then haven't touched the back of it since) I assume that these are not the right conditions to test it?

[planet10]

Originally Posted by paradiddle

I'm missing just one button. Could I paypal you for yours?

Let me see what i can find 1st. Email me so tha i have a note to follow up on.

dave

[Ian Finch]

Originally Posted by paradiddle

I'll try that with my tester tonight. My amp is now working again (I wiggled everything until it worked... and then haven't touched the back of it since) I assume that these are not the right conditions to test it?

You probably realise that jiggling sockets to establish reliable connection implies faulty sockets and/or wiring internally. If you want to fix this properly, some work has to be done by cleaning and replacing parts that are worn or on which the plating has corroded.

To test the power amp for basic faults as suggested, you can leave your normal inputs in place but switch to tape monitor to isolate them. If you are using the tape monitor inputs for another source, remove or otherwise disable it. The better method is to then short this input(s) with a 1K resistor(s) so that spurious input noise does not interfere with the output DC measurement.

Hopefully, this is unnecessary and you only have the age of the amp. connections to deal with.

[planet10]

Originally Posted by Ian Finch

You probably realise that jiggling sockets to establish reliable connection implies faulty sockets and/or wiring internally. If you want to fix this properly, some work has to be done by cleaning and replacing parts that are worn or on which the plating has corroded.

The 3020 is a great sounding amp. But to hit the price point they were built cheap. The sockets soldered to the board & sticking out the shelf suck. I always thot about mounting decent sockets on the back & wiring them to the board. In the end i just decided to work over 7020s -- they have more room to work in.

The females 14 items down work well.

dave

[Ian Finch]

You're right there, dave. Cheap sure applied to those products but not the price here, at least. Sellers were asking mid-market prices for budget engineering and this probably explains lower product profiles and popularity here too.

[planet10]

In the late 70s we were selling them for something like $225. You could add a Linn LP12 with a Grace 707/Grado FTE, and a budget pair of Bostons or a KEFkit for about a grand.

dave