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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Hi folks!
I have a Sony TA-F6B which I recently was given, virtually for free. It's a lovely looking - and by all accounts sounding - amplifier so I'd like to get it working again. The last owner said it made a loud popping sound one day, and hasn't worked since. After taking the amp apart, it's obvious the owner before him either did some tinkering, or gave it to a tech who cut a few corners...! I have traced the problem to the PLPS (Pulse Locked Power Supply - basically a late 70s Sony SMPS I think). A heatsink/clamp to four power transistors was not replaced by previous owner/tech so in the end two of these met their maker! Worse he replaced two of the transistors with a different make, and all four are meant to be hFE/batch matched. There is also evidence of lifted solder pads and a jumper wire too in the following pics: ![]() ![]() Here's what it should look like with the missing clamp: http://picasaweb.google.com/895720/S...51198508682210 So basically, I need to know what an ideal modern substitute for the 'R' hFE grade, and 'O' hFE grade Sanken 2SC2023 power transistor would be please, as the original devices seem next to impossible to get hold of now. Any help/advice would be gratefully received ![]() Thanks, - John Last edited by johnm; 14th January 2011 at 02:14 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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The original specs for this part:
2SC2023 pdf, 2SC2023 description, 2SC2023 datasheets, 2SC2023 view ::: ALLDATASHEET ::: |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Norwich, UK
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Those transistors with gold leads are bad news... look to replace them.
Fortunately there should be loads of suitable TO-220 transistors now that SMPS are all the rage. Fairchild are probably best to look at for this. The high Vceo and fast(ish, for those days) switching speed will be whats important here. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Norwich, UK
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Actually keeping it simple, TIP50 looks like it will be suitable
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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What about using something like BUT11AF (plastic insulated TO220) that is common in TV and SMPS use.
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Also just to add that 99% of SMPS failures are down to electroylitics developing high ESR (drying out).
It would be a big help to see the circuit... those 2335's were used from memory in the Sony SLC9 and SLC7 VCR PSU's
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Thanks for the suggestion guys - much appreciated
![]() I'm really no more than a 'solder by numbers' DIY guy so lack the knowledge about what parts are best to substitute. The caps on the main board will be replaced with Panasonic and Rubycon 105C long life types (mostly FC/FM and ZLH low esr types). Here's a scan of the PSU (or PLPS!): ![]() ![]() - John Last edited by johnm; 14th January 2011 at 06:12 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Q609-612 are the 2SC2023-O or Rs
Q601 & Q613 (the two on the side that are red in the pictures a few posts above) are the 2SC2023-Rs - John Last edited by johnm; 14th January 2011 at 06:14 PM. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Quote:
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