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Old 18th December 2010, 05:19 PM   #1
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Default Denon Poa 1500 Help.. Advice......

Hi Everyone,

last night while listen to Bill Evans, My Left Channel went out. I turn it off, Removed it from my rack, took the Covers off and just when I plug it in (Smoke) Which I didn't get to see since My kids came down stair wondering why the hell I turned off the music. Timing I tell you...I'm Pretty Positive it came from the Sp Unit:

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC00769.jpg


I took the speaker binding off the the board and on a closer view, It's obvious that this board is cracked and the previous owner did what he could to fix it. Its cracked precisely where the Left Channel relay(?) is connected to the board:

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC00783.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC00790.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC00780.jpg


Of course this unit is at least 20 years old, So parts are going to be hard to come by. I need a recommendation on substitute Relays? The resistors, Caps, Connectors and parts should be no problem.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC00798.jpg

The another thing is.... The PCB Board. Can I salvage it by Soldering the hell out of it even more or I've seen youtube Clips on how to make your own PCB Board. Its pretty straight forward but I don't have the Software. Is there anyone on here who can probably print it out for me? Thank you and Happy Holidays..
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Old 18th December 2010, 06:09 PM   #2
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i would make a new board.
if you make a scematic.
take lots of pictures... and then remove the components, clean all the extra solder off the board and through holes, clean well in a solvent. ive had luck just putting boards on a scanner and coping them using a laserprinter. iron that on the new board and etch.
if you need to modifiy for diffrent parts a sharpie works good.
i would see first what went belly up in the channel first. chances are that somthing from the output went bad to cause this.

just as info some solder wick placed neatly works alot better than globs of solder to fix this kinda stuff. i know it wasnt you but.....if it ever comes to you doing this...mental note
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Old 18th December 2010, 07:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakellogg View Post
i would make a new board.
if you make a scematic.
take lots of pictures... and then remove the components, clean all the extra solder off the board and through holes, clean well in a solvent. ive had luck just putting boards on a scanner and coping them using a laserprinter. iron that on the new board and etch.
if you need to modifiy for diffrent parts a sharpie works good.
i would see first what went belly up in the channel first. chances are that somthing from the output went bad to cause this.

just as info some solder wick placed neatly works alot better than globs of solder to fix this kinda stuff. i know it wasnt you but.....if it ever comes to you doing this...mental note

Yeah, I was kind of pissed when I saw that solder work. Never thought about scanning it. I have the Schematics. I have to go hunting and see what went wrong.

Thanks!
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Old 18th December 2010, 08:53 PM   #4
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I Did find this:

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC00826.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC00827.jpg

I guess I have to remove it to test it?
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Old 19th December 2010, 02:54 PM   #5
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I have everything coming in for a new PCB board. The schematics calls for (2):

.022UF 5% 630v Metallized Plastic Film Capacitors but Can't find them on mouser or Digikey. Is there another term I should be looking for?

thanks.


http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...1/DSC00798.jpg
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Old 19th December 2010, 11:58 PM   #6
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Cracked 22uh inductor..

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 20th December 2010, 02:20 AM   #7
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mig...
first off post #4: you will proably have to remove it to test it, but you will definatly have to to replace it.
post#5: 22nf film cap like newark part# 32R8853 from newark.com would work. might plan on changing the ones in the other channel also???? i dont know might change the sound considring its looks like its part of the LC on the output. someone else might be able to tell u more.
post#6: if it is a coil with shrink tube on it, and it got hot enough to shrink the tube more to split it. it might be ok.take it out,allong with one of the other ones of the same value and ohm it out.
i might have that scematic but just incase... can you post it?
off the top of my head i would say that some of the semiconductors in the output went bad and shorted. giving rail voltage where it shouldnt have been. i would plan on changing most if not all of the semi's in that channel. if you cant find replacements you can use alldatasheet.com to get the values and search from there. not the end of the world, plus you can tweek it also.
might be a good time to make both channels better.


so...where you a fighter pilot?
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Old 20th December 2010, 03:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakellogg View Post
mig...
first off post #4: you will proably have to remove it to test it, but you will definatly have to to replace it.
post#5: 22nf film cap like newark part# 32R8853 from newark.com would work. might plan on changing the ones in the other channel also???? i dont know might change the sound considring its looks like its part of the LC on the output. someone else might be able to tell u more.
post#6: if it is a coil with shrink tube on it, and it got hot enough to shrink the tube more to split it. it might be ok.take it out,allong with one of the other ones of the same value and ohm it out.
i might have that scematic but just incase... can you post it?
off the top of my head i would say that some of the semiconductors in the output went bad and shorted. giving rail voltage where it shouldnt have been. i would plan on changing most if not all of the semi's in that channel. if you cant find replacements you can use alldatasheet.com to get the values and search from there. not the end of the world, plus you can tweek it also.
might be a good time to make both channels better.



so...where you a fighter pilot?

Hi Scott,

Thanks for the help. Yes I have a schematic, I'll post it up or send it to you. I just finished modding up my phono preamp and bang. 2 hours of listening pleasure..What a sweet sounding amp.

I barely touch that transistor and it came apart. Both channel feed into that Sp unit with the 22nf caps. I'll test it. I might as well change that inductor. Looks weird. like a clown in there. I'm going to replace all the caps also. Thanks for that alldatasheet. That will come in handy!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sakellogg View Post
so...where you a fighter pilot?
I was feared in the skies of Deutschland!!! I used to play tons of simulation flight games when I was younger. The name just stuck and my kid is the "migkiller" in xbox360 live..

Last edited by migkiller1971; 20th December 2010 at 03:11 AM.
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Old 20th December 2010, 03:42 AM   #9
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ok send or post..if you post more help might be avaliable. most guys around here have forgot more than i know.
never fails when its sounds the best it gose bad.
ive always liked denon. i still use them as my home theater pre/pro. and i recomend them to any one who is in the market .

and i get the migfighter now.

by the way i cant spell and the spell check dosent work on my phone

Last edited by sakellogg; 20th December 2010 at 03:45 AM.
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Old 20th December 2010, 04:06 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakellogg View Post
ok send or post..if you post more help might be avaliable. most guys around here have forgot more than i know.
never fails when its sounds the best it gose bad.
ive always liked denon. i still use them as my home theater pre/pro. and i recomend them to any one who is in the market .

and i get the migfighter now.

by the way i cant spell and the spell check dosent work on my phone

Denon POA 1500:

denon_poa-1500_[ET].pdf

Right Now I'm using a backup sony tan330es until I get this denon up.

Thanks for all the help!!
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