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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
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Hi all,
I have multichannel solid state amplifier, but the right channel volume control (potentiometer) was broken. I can not find the part for replacement, so I want to replace it with digital volume control. My plan is using the left channel potentiometer as a control for new digital stereo volume control. Please help me, I need circuit diagram for this, thankyou in advance. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Using a pot to control a digital attenuator is far from easy, I don't know how you would do it without purpose writen code to interface it to a "one off" purpose built attenuator...
You could use it to control an analogue VCA (voltage controlled amplifier) though, but surely fitting a conventional replacement pot is far far easier. Digital control usually requires either a rotary encoder for control or up/down buttons. All the original pot can do is generate a variable resistance (or voltage) and nothing more. What happens if the good side of the pot goes faulty? Is the original motorised ? Photos ? Make model etc ?
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------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hong Kong
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I agree with Mooly, it will be difficult to use a volume pot to control digital attenuator. I have made it by feeding the pot with 5Vdc, and then encode the pot voltage by an ADC. The whole thing is quite clumsy. See link below.
Banana's Pre - inelegant way to contrl vol |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
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Thank's Guys,
I searched the net, and I find more simple solution using optocoupler like this: DIY "Lightspeed Attenuator" - Passive LDR Volume Control (audio optocouplers) what do you think? |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
But, of course, I agree with Mooly, it's a not so easy task, even more so for commercial multichannel amp with little space left.
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fresh matched IRFP240/IRFP9240 fets || AlephJ/JX-kitsF5 transistor kits || Burning Amp BA-1/2/3 transistor kits |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
How much current is going to flow via the pot wiper at the end of it's travel. I'll let you worki it out... I wouldn't count on the remaining good side of your pot staying good for very long though
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
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Hi Mooly,
I don't know how much current... I only knew that the right channel was broken, maybe it was because my daughter turn it at max at one time when I turn it it on... the amp is 100 watt per channel. thank's |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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The current is just ohms law.
A 5 volt supply A resistor to limit current (stated as 24 to 100ohm) The volt drop across the LED... say 2 volts. So we 5-2 =3volts. 3 volts across 24 ohm is 0.125amp. As the pot is turned from zero resistance that current will burn the resistive track at the ends. Why can you not just fit a normal pot... what's the problem. Must be far easier than all this.
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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