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Old 5th November 2010, 02:36 PM   #1
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Default has anybody heard these amps on ebay?

TDA7293 X 2 85W+85W +speaker protect upc1237 - eBay (item 190464334983 end time Nov-10-10 19:21:09 PST)

i want to know if this amp sounds good or if it is highly colored.. maybe way too warm or far too bright?

i need an amp for my rear surround speakers and this looks like it would work if i also purchase one of these: 180W 12V DC input change +-32V DC voltage Good for car - eBay (item 200538662505 end time Nov-08-10 19:13:32 PST)

i would hook up that power change board to an old 460watt computer power supply.

a grand total of $52.13 would provide or no?

i would be powering 2 sony bookshelf speakers.
each bass reflex cabinet has a 6.5inch woofer and an onkyo tweeter (i blew the old tweeters years ago)
the back of the cabinet says that the speakers are 8 ohms and 100watts

i had just the woofers hooked up to a small amp in the back of my mothers car for a while.
that amp was 55 watts RMS x2 @ 4ohms.. so that means bridging it gave me 110watts and i wired the woofers in parallel which brings me back to 55 watts each.
(or maybe it was 110 watts each? i dont remember, it was like 5-6 years ago)

but anyway.. i wanna know if these amps are worth anything at all and i dont have the extra money to simply buy them and find out.
so if somebody could tell me i would be greatful.
they are class A amps so they should offer them sony speakers a bit of clarity.. its the color of the sound that i really worry about.

**edit**
i finally found the amp on the internet and it was putting out 166 watts in bridged mode, which means each speaker was getting 83 watts rms.

so this 85 watt amp should be good.. but do you think it will give out 85 watts into 8 ohms?

Last edited by anwaypasible; 5th November 2010 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 6th November 2010, 05:18 AM   #2
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well i have learned that the amp isnt a class-A design.. and it was a class-A amp kit that had drawn me to the ebay seller.

if anybody knows of an amp kit that i can connect to a 460 watt computer power supply, please feel free to inform me.

i am emphasizing a new amp because i really want some bass output from the rear speakers.
that klipsch amp has a built-in crossover at like 100hz so there is no bass at all.
if i use the sub, then there will be bass coming from in front of me rather than behind me since the sub/amp is sittup up front with speaker wires ran to the back.

i've been looking at car audio amps also, anything decent to provide the RMS power (or at least close to the 100 watts i am looking for)

i was hoping that i could purchase an amp kit for a fraction of the cost that some of my other options are.
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Old 6th November 2010, 03:02 PM   #3
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.... hmmm lets see if there is anything we can do to get you down to earth ....

6 1/2 woofer from sony with an onkyo tweeter saying behind 8 ohm 100W means exactly that you have a sweet small woofer that will happily work with 30 W (real 30W though) and may produce for a few fragments of a millisecond safelly peaks that someone will listen as 100W power ...

so skip the 7293 and the generally crappy sound of the ic ... built your shelf a DX amplifier or a P3A from esp pages though limmit the power supply to achive something like 40+40W per amplifier and prepair your shelf to a journey in quality sound ...

happy precise regards sakis
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Old 6th November 2010, 03:34 PM   #4
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Given your comments about random tweeter replacement and surround use, virtually any amp should do. You really don't want to run a 6" driver full range anyway. Sending the deep bass to a sub with a steep crossover you should not be able to tell where it is coming from. Just because the speaker says 100W doesn't mean you NEED 100W. Surround channels usually don't need much power anyway.

You might not have the amp by the time the return period ends coming from Hong Kong. There are several options for chipamp kits, such as DIY Chip Amplifier Kits, PCB's, Components and Information. that don't cost much more and are local.

With 32V rails of the supply you linked to, I would expect 40-50W into 8 ohms. If this is for home use, why are you looking to use a PC (switching) supply to power another switching supply to power your amp? By the time you add a heat sink, you could build a linear supply from surplus parts for the same money and avoid 2 levels of switcher noise.

You can build an LM3886 amp for $15-20 if you wire it up point to point (no board, actually quite easy). You'll need heat sinks and a power supply on top of that. You can get almost everything you need at Apex Jr.Home Page - no connection except being a happy customer.
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