Are you ready to face strong emotions?.. Dx Blame MKII and the Supercharged release!

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I feel the emotions now

:) Hello guys!

I have this last well "almost" I can't said is last because it take lots of changing constantly on the layout like hole diameter, pitch distance the correct hole diameter for the transistors and the different type of capacitors in the market but this one that I order so far is pretty good for my first time and to be honest is not 100% perfect it does have minor imperfections like track too thin and the driver transistors hole diameter too small but the common diameter for the MJE15033/32 is about 0.91 max and also I did learn something new is the "Footprint-Wizard" that help you to create your own components "custom made" is a tool that let you decide the pitch distance and how big is the hole and how much the pad will get solder and so on, I just place this info for the new guys that just stared now to like layouts as myself I'm not a pro or something like that but I really do like this and see it working in my home is something really special guys, I did some modifications to the layout and I think to order this new layout later for the future, oh one more thing, I did test the version of Dx Blame ST with all kind of music Pop, Rock, Rap, classic music, Car Audio bass music, and it really does respond nicely except the fact that I don't have those two 100pF caps, but at least I have temporary those 180pF for now, I already order the right capacitors, and for now I just using this nice amp, ok guys have a wonderful day building stuff :p.


Regards
vargasmongo3435
 

Attachments

  • Dx Blame multiboard.pdf
    66.7 KB · Views: 146
  • Footprint Wizard.PNG
    Footprint Wizard.PNG
    25.9 KB · Views: 434
  • mazinger.PNG
    mazinger.PNG
    53.9 KB · Views: 439
  • transistors diameter.PNG
    transistors diameter.PNG
    123.1 KB · Views: 430
Last edited:
Through pad or regular pad?

Hey Rudi I like your style on your PCB really unique! :D , hey man I got a question for you, is better to have the "Through pad" or just the regular one as you see in this images, and Andrew yes about the pads for the transistors I was referring to the hole diameter I made a mistake and make them too small I just want to point out that but now they have the correct hole diameter, something similar happen with Dx Blame MKIII Hx the 1N4007 diodes the hole were too small so that can happen to anyone and you know Alex MM is a [PRO] on that about layouts, ok about the "through pad question" I want an opinion from you guys what is the best choice "though pad" solder on both sides, or just regular bottom solder?

Regards
vargasmongo3435
 

Attachments

  • ok.PNG
    ok.PNG
    37 KB · Views: 60
  • correct.PNG
    correct.PNG
    57.4 KB · Views: 384
  • pad 1.png
    pad 1.png
    32.6 KB · Views: 65
  • pad 2.png
    pad 2.png
    32.1 KB · Views: 68
Last edited:
"Plated-through-holes" means: double-sided PCB, which costs much more than a single-sided PCB and is more difficult to unsolder a component, in case you did an error.
I would go for a single-sided PCB, if I were you, even if there are a couple of tracks that you will have to solder manually using small wires.

Best regards - Rudi
 
I also do not use speaker protection

It is not really needed, the amplifier is stable, has not power on "thump" sound, nor high offset (usually less than 10 milivolts), also do not happens to burn components presenting DC rail voltages in the output line.

Install fuses in the output, this way if a damage happens (this is not impossible to happen) and DC appearing in the speaker terminals, then the current crossing the speaker coil will melt the fuse avoiding this way a damage to your speakers.

Well.... to avoid this speaker damage your speaker should be rated to twice the power amplifier RMS rated power.

When we have unstable amplifiers, big off set, unstability when powering on, under rated output power transistors, under rated speakers, then we need a protector and also a V/I circuit to avoid tragedies...... as you see....bad decisions forces you to include V/I limiter into the circuit and to use added circuit boards to protect your speakers.

Dx amplifiers, alike many other good ones, uses fuses.... something that is old and good and usually enough.

Fuses should be installed into the power transformer primary and the fuse rate should be carefully calculated considering the maximum distorted power the amplifier can drain, with both channels operating and at least 3 volts RMS of audio entering.

We provide fuses to the rails, to the positive and negative rail, also calculated in the same way.

In series with the speaker we provide a fuse too...and this should be twice the rail fuse value.

I have never faced troubles.... my amplifiers are operating full power, hours long, at my home.

But, of course, all this depends on how good you assemble it.

If your heatsinks are too much small..then it will overheat and will have shorted transistors, and then you will have rail DC voltage in your speaker terminals.

If your heatsinks are internal and air flow is small, then you gonna have overheat with the same bad consequences explained previously.

If your transistors are not tight screwed into the heatsink..then you will face troubles

If your rectifier are weak and goes shorted and then AC will enter the amplifier...the you will face troubles.

If you do not allow room (clearance) to air flow to cool down your unit..then troubles will come to your life

If you cover your set with a cloth or with another appliance..then you will be inviting troubles to your life.

If your speaker has too much low impedance, or valleys of impedance because the passive speaker crossover...then......

As you see..speaker protector is needed when you make terrible mistakes in advance...they exist to fix our own failures as designers, builders and users.

I do trust in my amplifiers because they were deeply tested and tortured...i am sending two units to Rio de Janeiro, a gift to my sons, together the amplifier there's a pen drive with videos ... and i am told to my kids:

- "Take care of this unit, all schematics and documentation goes together the package...this is the best you can have in audio amplifiers, it is huge and will survive your daddy...enjoy!"

If i did that to my own sons, you can imagine how i trust and appreciate this unit....if you have a son you will understand what this means...we never give bad things to our sons.

regards,

Carlos
 

Attachments

  • Amplificadores.jpg
    Amplificadores.jpg
    457.9 KB · Views: 85
Last edited:
How a Dx amplifier will be damaged

Assembling transistors wrong way

Assembling wrong resistors in the circuit

Over rating speaker fuses, rail fuses and transformer primary fuse.

Using wrong transistors

Using fake transistors

Inverting the rail voltage supplies

Using weak rectifiers and sending AC to power your amplifier instead of DC

Covering ventilation holes

Using small heatsinks

Now screwing tight your transistors into the heatsink.

Producing shorts in between the transistor and the heatsink

Assembling the heat sensor transistor (bias controller) with a short into the screw, wrong way or with one lead open

Using long screws into the chassis that produces shorts into the pcboards

Loosen pcboards being shorted against the metalic chassis

Transistors assembled with long leads, while vibrating they may broke leads and open critical circuits... avoid vibrations into your unit or damp it with glue, rubber or anything you have at hand.

Unlocked nuts from chassis screws.... they may detach and short something

Producing long time shorts in your output...with over rated fuses installed at the same time.

Over rated fuses

Over rated supply voltage

Under rated silicon rectifier into the supply

Supply filter capacitances smaller than 100uf each rail

Too much small heatsinks

Cloth covering your amplifier preventing air flow to cross your unit

Another amplifier, pre amplifier or other appliance at the top of your unit, blocking ventilation

To plug your unit in 220V while your transformer was wired to 110V

Injecting a 40 volts RMS of audio into your input terminals...or connecting another power amplifier in the place of a preamplifier overdriving the input.

Connecting your speaker wires directly into the mains

Exposing your amplifier (operating) to rain or moisture.

Exposing your amplifier (operating) to direct sunlight

Trowing your amplifier into your swimming pool (powered on and connected to the mains)

Passing with a Caterpillar heavy machine over your amplifiers.

Give it a couple of 12 gaudge double barreled shots pointing the pcboards

Calling envious friends to watch it playing...ahahahahahah!:)

There are hundreds of other options of how to destroy an amplifier...even being good and stable, the mankind stupidity (normal standard and average humans that are able to make war against other humans) is able to destroy anything.... even love, friendship, respect can be destroyed by stupidity.

regards,

Carlos
 

Attachments

  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    874.2 KB · Views: 110
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    972 KB · Views: 118
  • Going to my sons.jpg
    Going to my sons.jpg
    554.9 KB · Views: 120
Last edited:
Getting ready for stereo!

I'm ready for "stereo" I was putting together the other board and at least I solder must of the resistors, and I have to take a break my eyes were really tired because I'm not only check the color code of the resistor I also check with the multimeter to make sure is the right resistance, because sometimes when you in a hurry you look away for a second and grab the wrong one by mistake it does happen, but yesterday I was chilling listen to the other channel playing some Sade wow nice!,

but talking about resistors next time I'm going to use the 1/4W ones because looks more nicely on the board but in the same way this 1/2W blue ones don't look that bad at all so is 50/50 :D yes I'm crazy :p . About the MICA capacitors this time I have the right ones two 100pF and one 220pF this time no like the last time that I installed two 100nF and I didn't get treble sounds I be like WTF! :p. This time I'm going to replace R20 to 150 ohms instead of 470, on the first board I keep the R20 as 470 ohms, that is why the adjustment I have to turned so many times because of the 1K trim pot but still able to adjusted to 3V, after the board is completed and going to adjust the bias to 3.3V, "I mean the best I can" lol, so I'm really satisfied with the sound quality I was playing music for about 3 hours yesterday "with normal volume of course" really nice and I don't have expensive woofer or noting like that, all the speakers I have are "recycle" so imagine how good will sound if I have two 10" woofers mid ranges and I nice set of tweeters oh Lord that would be lovely! ok... ok... sorry I went away for a minute lol, take care guys!

Regards
vargasmongo3435
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    73 KB · Views: 348
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    79 KB · Views: 353
  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    101.5 KB · Views: 340
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    88.1 KB · Views: 315
Last edited:
I also have perceived that Juan...we do not need expensive speakers

to result a good sound...this amplifier reproduces and amplifies the sound the way it enters and also transfer to speaker without troubles...any speaker.

I have coupled to a professional monitor....my god!... really resulted even better.... naturally.

But my poor speakers at home are playing a nice sound too...not so detailed as compared to high end speakers, but plays very good.

Thank you Juan.

Because you talk the truth, and all comes from your heart.

Carlos
 
silly idea what the heck is DIY!

This might be silly idea of showing this but what the heck! this is DIY, I find the way to keep the air coil inductor in a straight line to the board is silly but maybe some one is having a hard time installing the inductor straight, in the pictures you can see that I marked with a line so I know where I can bent the copper wire to a almost 90 degree angle, so it can go nicely and place it to the board , I know maybe is silly but I've seen some crazy stuff that people do in their DIY projects lol well is funny, I hope is a good idea for some one lol :rolleyes: je je je je . good day guys!

Regards
vargasmongo3435
 

Attachments

  • 5.jpg
    5.jpg
    91.3 KB · Views: 117
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    83.5 KB · Views: 103
  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    102.9 KB · Views: 291
  • 2a.jpg
    2a.jpg
    63.5 KB · Views: 133
Last edited:
campare sound with a China power amplifier

Yesterday I was looking in my storage and I took out and old amplifier that I bought in Miami in 1998 so I decide to compare sounds with the Supercharged, so it happens that I can not get the same results as the one I build, first I was listen to the best of Sade 320kbps best quality,and this China amplifier sounded really dull in sound, the instruments sounds can not come out clear and crispy, I be like what the hell I pay $250.00 dollars for that?:eek: WTF! I'm not bullshiting the volume of my PC I have to turn it all the way up and this amp was not feeling strong or that I was enjoy it " I don't know how to described" lol, ok so done that I disconnected and put back my Dx Blame MKII Supercharged and all went back to normal I can listen to the instruments also I feel the deep bass as always so yes my deer friends I spend just $76.99 in parts and I have myself I really good sound amplifier. What is best choice 250 bucks China amp or 76.99 and you know that it was build it by yourself? :D true story here are the pictures of the amp. and the must important of all you have the option to build it the way you want it. China no is been done only one way pay for it! lol

Regards
vargasmongo3435
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    142.7 KB · Views: 132
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    94.6 KB · Views: 119
  • 19.jpg
    19.jpg
    138.3 KB · Views: 141
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.