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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
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Whenever i see 0.15 Ohm cement wirewound power resistors in parallel i wonder if they're the regular product or a low-inductance interleaved wire variety.
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Not so much,.......if it says "ZM" in the corner. |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Quote:
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
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Fascinating info, thanks. I've never compared pots really, except for when I changed out a linear Vishay one and a cheap log carbon one for the Alps - their channel balance was too poor and the Alps is first-rate in this regard. I've often wondered if the stepped attenuators improve things much. It looks like I'm going to have to try. Revealing is fine with me, I have a great preamp and first-rate cd player.
Sorry to thread-jack Ian, but maybe this info is interesting to you too. Trouble is finding a motorised alternative, there aren't many.
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Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Simon, you are using open baffles? I love it
![]() Please more info on your preamp. |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm using cheap OBs but in my sig there's a link to much better ones I'm still putting together. The preamp is just a simple buffer designed by Pedja Rogic, using S-Power regulators, Kiwame resistors, the Alps Blue pot, CMC silver/copper sockets and Mundorf foil wiring. PSU decoupling is Ruby ZA. Naked caps and 80VA toroid for the fun of it.
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Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
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Ahhh, another Makro/Metro offer scrounger on the block.
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Not so much,.......if it says "ZM" in the corner. |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
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Makro's fun
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Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: UK, Manchester
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Cheers Ian
![]() have the same Restek as you do and pretty happy with it, although it has one trivial problem - i could distinguish and hear some music even when the volume control put to silence. Do you have the same issue and could it be somehow fix, how do you think? |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oxford
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Hi!
I have exactly the same problem. Also, at very low volume, there will be a balance problem. This is all due to the Blue Alps volume control pot. At some point, I will look into changing it but for the moment, I use the remote all the time so options are limited. I can't tell you how much better a change to all the caps made. Much tigher and much more dynamic. The std preamp sections is average to be fair and the change to discrete opamps and rework again made a large difference. If you're brave enough, there is plenty to be gained from an already very good amp
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When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk JA-88D Class A, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard"
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: UK, Manchester
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Hi,
thanks for info, now feel a relief about this balance issue ![]() I'm thinking now about changing all the caps to Nichicon KZ or FG and the big 10000uf ones to smth. Not sure is there any point to buy expensive Mundorf or BC 114/ 154 series or Kendeil...recently have found Rubycons on ebay, how do you think, does it worth to try them? Also regarding the rest of caps, maybe it's better to find some replacement with OSCONs or Panasonic FC? Already have done the following mods: -replaced inlet with Furutech -mains cable to Belden 19364 -all the original wires on pbc to silver 1.00mm -speaker binding pots to CMC -replaced oxidized speaker cable (pbc->speaker terminals) to Kimber 4TC (have 8TC from amp till speakers) Now it's time for caps and opams
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