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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Here's the schematic for the 103 with arrows drawn to show where it's connected.
Cheers, Lee. http://www.diyhi-fi.co.uk/pdf/Servic...cuits_edit.pdf |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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can you identify the 2off 10V Zeners on the PCB, or is that them glued to the heatsink?
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regards Andrew T. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: On a mushroom
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Is that not just a thermal cut out? -- the wires are both the same colour and go back via two rails that come up through the centre of the PCB on fairly hefty track
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Hum likes to have a nice "Noise to Signal" ratio ![]() To "Hum" is to be noticed Quality hum is when it pours out of Electrostatic speakers
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
It would work though! |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Here
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I may be missing one transistor in the picture, but the schematic seems to have 19 and I see only 18 on the board.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
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It has to be a normally open thermal switch. (or a big NTC thermistor, you'd have to look much closer into the circuit to see what that would do, but measuring the part is easy) When the sink rises to the trip point it clamps off the supply to voltage stage through the isolating resistors.
Last edited by Andrew Eckhardt; 19th April 2010 at 08:09 PM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Moonee Ponds, Vic, Australia
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Can you post a pic of the copper side of the board,
might help? Rgds James
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The border between the Real and the unreal is not fixed, but just marks the last place where rival gangs of shamans fought each other to a standstill. Robert Anton Wilson |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
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I tried to edit that post 15 times. It's the input stage left after the resistors, the stage that handles voltage gain is before it, and those aren't just isolation resistors, they're dropping resistors for the zeners. An NTC on there would have to seriously drop the supply to the input section before the bias regulator dropped out, so it probably wouldn't be any more effective than a thermal switch. An ohm meter will give you the answer.
Last edited by Andrew Eckhardt; 20th April 2010 at 12:32 AM. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Hi guys, thanks for your answers. I too thought it was a thermistor or some sort of thermal cutout. I've measured it with an ohm-meter, and it's open circuit. I'll try heating it slightly with a hot-air blower and see if that changes anything.
Cheers, Lee. |
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