help with europower ep-2500 - Page 3

wg_ski · 27th March 2010, 01:58 AM

That doesn't inspire confidence that everything is under control. How do you KNOW that it stays in adjustment after 10 years of being moved around in an equipment rack? I like VI limiters - you hit Vbe and it folds back. No muss, no fuss.

LAJ · 29th March 2010, 02:38 PM

Over a period of time, the bias pots creep from their proper setting. That's why I ALWAYS cement, glue , or silicone them after making proper adjustment. And that keeps the uneducated from opening it up and "screwing around." Seems like none of the amps I've seen come from the factory with the pots secured.

wg_ski · 29th March 2010, 04:47 PM

When bias pots creep, you get distortion. Then you go fix it. If they open, you get a LOT of distortion (class B or even C operation). Then you go fix it. If a current limit pot creeps, you might not know anything about it until the amp is on fire.

Zero Cool · 29th March 2010, 05:09 PM

I would really like to find a source for that goop the factories use. sort of a clear/translucent red or green gel stuff that stays somewhat tacky. I found one place specified something called "Glyptol Resin" which sounds interesting.

Stormrider · 29th March 2010, 09:46 PM

I've seen nail polish type stuff used, and suggested.

kevvywevvywoo · 2nd April 2010, 09:29 PM

I use one of those touch-up bottles of paint that are sold for stone-chips in car paintwork. Discontinued colours can be bought for pennies.

Zoors · 29th January 2012, 07:03 PM

Does anybody have the calibration routine on the EP2500?

I can tell something is wrong with it, as the lower part of amp, the negative half is much warmer than the positive.
90 degrees C against 65 degrees C, measured on the four transitors wit an IR termometer. And it turns off after some half to one hour, 8 amp mechanical fuse goes home.

I am afraid of a current limit pot creeper... =)
I did the usuel fastening of rectifier bridges that get lose, making it a cooler.
But I need the bias procerdure and the current limit procedure.

BTW, is this a copy of a Crown amp?

LAJ · 30th January 2012, 06:53 PM

One of your biases is off. Ther are two bias pots. I would be very careful adjusting them. A little bit goes a long way. Also they are crappy pots and go bad frequently.

kevvywevvywoo · 1st February 2012, 08:08 AM

Either 90 or 60deg C are too hot if the amp is in idle.

This is a copy of a QSC RMX2450 so the calibration is the same if you match-up the components on the QSC diagram.

If the main 8A fuse is blowing, I suspect more than just calibration, possibly one side of the amp is down or the rail switches are misbehaving.

29th March 2010, 02:38 PM	#22
LAJ diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Atlanta Ga. USA	What I think happens. Over a period of time, the bias pots creep from their proper setting. That's why I ALWAYS cement, glue , or silicone them after making proper adjustment. And that keeps the uneducated from opening it up and "screwing around." Seems like none of the amps I've seen come from the factory with the pots secured.

29th March 2010, 09:46 PM	#25
Stormrider diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Connecticut	I've seen nail polish type stuff used, and suggested. __________________ AJ

29th January 2012, 07:03 PM	#27
Zoors diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	Adjustments of an EP2500 Does anybody have the calibration routine on the EP2500? I can tell something is wrong with it, as the lower part of amp, the negative half is much warmer than the positive. 90 degrees C against 65 degrees C, measured on the four transitors wit an IR termometer. And it turns off after some half to one hour, 8 amp mechanical fuse goes home. I am afraid of a current limit pot creeper... =) I did the usuel fastening of rectifier bridges that get lose, making it a cooler. But I need the bias procerdure and the current limit procedure. BTW, is this a copy of a Crown amp? __________________ /best regards, The Source...

30th January 2012, 06:53 PM	#28
LAJ diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Atlanta Ga. USA	Its a copy of the QSC amp. One of your biases is off. Ther are two bias pots. I would be very careful adjusting them. A little bit goes a long way. Also they are crappy pots and go bad frequently.

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27th March 2010, 01:58 AM	#21
wg_ski diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2007	That doesn't inspire confidence that everything is under control. How do you KNOW that it stays in adjustment after 10 years of being moved around in an equipment rack? I like VI limiters - you hit Vbe and it folds back. No muss, no fuss.

29th March 2010, 04:47 PM	#23
wg_ski diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2007	When bias pots creep, you get distortion. Then you go fix it. If they open, you get a LOT of distortion (class B or even C operation). Then you go fix it. If a current limit pot creeps, you might not know anything about it until the amp is on fire.

29th March 2010, 05:09 PM	#24
Zero Cool Audio Junkie diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: MN	I would really like to find a source for that goop the factories use. sort of a clear/translucent red or green gel stuff that stays somewhat tacky. I found one place specified something called "Glyptol Resin" which sounds interesting.

2nd April 2010, 09:29 PM	#26
kevvywevvywoo diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008	I use one of those touch-up bottles of paint that are sold for stone-chips in car paintwork. Discontinued colours can be bought for pennies.

1st February 2012, 08:08 AM	#29
kevvywevvywoo diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008	Either 90 or 60deg C are too hot if the amp is in idle. This is a copy of a QSC RMX2450 so the calibration is the same if you match-up the components on the QSC diagram. If the main 8A fuse is blowing, I suspect more than just calibration, possibly one side of the amp is down or the rail switches are misbehaving.

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