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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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I just bought a 250 HCCA competition / xover amp off craigslist for $150.
I am not new to amps, however I am new to this one. First question is where do I find a manual for this? And which gen amp is this the 1st? Here is what it looks like. My 2nd questions is how do I switch it to bridge. 3rd question is where is the remote? I found this manual am not sure if this is the correct manual for this amp. Index of /orionman
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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OK so i answered a few questions by finding the manual. Please excuse my noobness its been a looong time since I messed with systems. I used to have a pretty loud one in high school ( long time ago )
![]() So I hooked up the amp. It works. But it doesn't push my sub very hard. Not sure If i have the amp setup right? this is how it is current set up ![]() ![]() ![]() I hooked it up to a 10" Rockford Fosgate P1 Sub. Its nothing special. I just had a weak amp pushing it and wanted to upgrade to a better amp to push this sub hard. here are the specs to the sub Woofer Size: 2 x 10" Impedance: 8 ohm Power handling(RMS): 300 Watts Power handling(Peak): 600 Watts Does the ohms have anyhting to do with why the amp isnt powering the sub very well? I was expecting this amp to pound this sub to death! I have it up to max gain on the amp and its not really pushing the sub too hard. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Doerun, GA
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That amp is designed for low impedance loads, 800W delivered into 1 ohm mono. As you have it, bridged into 8 ohms, it's rated at 100W.
It's not a first generation HCCA, they had no X/O built-in and required an outboard bridging module. It really is a nice amp and very potent. But it was made specifically for making lots of power into low-impedance loads yet qualifying for the 100W class in competition. They still bring good money. If you plan to run it into less than 8 ohms mono, be sure your power and ground wires are up to it and that your charging system can provide the current it needs. Otherwise, it's life span will be shortened.
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Tim |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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So bascially what you are saying is I need a 1 ohm subwoofer to make this amp work to its full potential?
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Doerun, GA
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Yeah, or some combination of subs to end up in the 1-2 ohm range. Again, if you provide this load, be sure you can feed it plenty of current.
edit: I just re-read your second post. You have two 8-ohm subs? Wired in parallel for 4 ohms? That would be 200W output. This happened all too often in the shop when these amps were new. Customers wanted the red HCCA amp because it was a "competition" amp, "Class A", looked cool, had a good reputation, and the salesmen liked them. Then, they'd run them at 2 or even 4 ohms, where the black GX/SX version of the same amp would have provided 3x the power at that load.
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Tim Last edited by tsmith1315; 25th February 2010 at 06:00 AM. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Well this setup will be going into my WV GTI. My plan was to stay with one sub for saving as much trun k space as possible. I guess this amp wasn't the right choice for what I wanted. I didn't want anything crazy. I figured for $150 it was a good deal so I took it. However I just want a amp that I could crank up and play. I don't want to get a capacitor and get into all of that stuff. So ill just hold onto the 250HCCA as a piece of history and look for another amp tha'ts made for 8ohms.
My buddy has 2 PPi's Pro Mos and Art he said he would practially give me but he told me it would be the same situation with them as is with the HCCA's. |
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