Thanks Sakis for bringing protection circuits up. What is the 220k resistor on the trigger of the 555 with a slash through it and the T beside it? It's not a thermistor attached to the heat sink, is it? They have invented some stuff since I got out of school, and wikipedia didn't show this symbol under thermistor. I was looking at the Newark.com catalog Sunday and found a honeywell 140-103LAC-RB1 thermistor with 25 C resistance of 10Kohm and a beta of 3974. I think this means it goes 1070 ohm at 60 deg C, is that about right? I've been disassembling motor drives trying to find the temperature sensor, but I think they are integrated into the thyristor block where I can't play with them, and honeywell doesn't have and ap note online, so I am trying to get a free education. Thanks in advance.
Thanks Sakis for bringing protection circuits up. What is the 220k resistor on the trigger of the 555 with a slash through it and the T beside it? It's not a thermistor attached to the heat sink, is it? They have invented some stuff since I got out of school, and wikipedia didn't show this symbol under thermistor. I was looking at the Newark.com catalog Sunday and found a honeywell 140-103LAC-RB1 thermistor with 25 C resistance of 10Kohm and a beta of 3974. I think this means it goes 1070 ohm at 60 deg C, is that about right? I've been disassembling motor drives trying to find the temperature sensor, but I think they are integrated into the thyristor block where I can't play with them, and honeywell doesn't have and ap note online, so I am trying to get a free education. Thanks in advance.
It's a pot.
If a PCB is generated from this schematic have a close look around R5.
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It's a pot.
If a PCB is generated from this schematic have a close look around R5.
Agreed. By the time a positive offset triggers the protection, it will likely have damaged the speakers or simply blown some fuses. I'm not sure you can get a negative offset to even trigger it. I would think a window comparator would do a better job of it but in all my years of working with audio gear, I personally have never run into a amp that put out significant DC without taking out its own fuses and I've never seen speakers damaged by continuous DC.
G²
I see no problem around R5 except that value of R4 and R5 maybe has to be lowered...
As T2 is used in it's Grounded base configuration it have a very high Current gain. It should work fineI'm not sure you can get a negative offset to even trigger it.
I see no problem around R5 except that value of R4 and R5 maybe has to be lowered...
R5 looks like it has both pins connected together. See the 2 connect points and net under the resistor symbol. It doesn't really matter if you are only looking at the schematic but it may be a problem for the PCB.
It could be that the resistor has had a pin swap on the PCB but not rotated in the schematic.
Jan,
Maybe you meant to say a current gain below one?As T2 is used in it's Grounded base configuration it have a very high Current gain.
When do I learn not to post comments so early in the mornings (maybe never as it is the time of day where I have most time for surfing the diyaudio)Maybe you meant to say a current gain below one?
Yes. Current gain is below one. Voltage gain is high
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