Problem with Energy S10.3 Sub

[elizard]

I'm having an issue with the amp on my Energy S10.3 Sub, and I figured I'd ask here about it before I go any further. I used the sub for a few months when I got it a couple years ago, and then it sat downstairs without being plugged in/used for over a year until I finally hooked it back up a couple months back. No sound came from the sub, and after a couple minutes of playing around with making sure my receiver was set up right, I felt the plate amp, and it was overheating. I unplugged it, opened it up, and the first thing I noticed was that it blew a fuse.

I disconnected the speaker, and the two jumper cables (one connecting the power supply board with the board containing the output transistors, and one connecting the input/crossover board with the output board), replaced the fuse, and this time the fuse didn't blow right away .. I didn't leave it on long as a couple resistors were getting too hot (see below).

I poked around the transistors and found out that Q116 (IRF530) had a reading of 0 ohms between ground and source (both while it was soldered, and once i took it out). I also noticed that two larger resistors (151 ohm, look like 5W resistors or so) were overheating both before and after I replaced Q116. A bit more probing around and I found the same situation with Q200 (IRF530). I replaced it as well, and tried it again, this time the resistors aren't overheating.

Finally I connected the two jumper cables between the main board containing the three boards, and connected the volume control from the front of the sub, and now the resistors are fine, but the output transistors started overheating/making a buzzing sound after a few seconds of being plugged in. I tried disconnecting everything, one at a time, and the only time it stops is when I disconnect the jumper cable from the power supply board to the output board. The +/- are still connected from the power supply to output though, so the output board is getting power.

That's really the extent of my "troubleshooting" (as non-existent as it is). Does anyone have any helpful suggestions (other than replace it with another amp )?

[elizard]

Poked around with the multimeter a little more last night. I took a reading of the +/- after disconnecting them from the output board, and I was getting ~6.7V. I probed a few pins on the connector going from the power supply to the output board, and got a reading of 60V on two pins (there are about 10 pins). Not sure if any of this is helpful or not. A schematic would be nice, but I can't find one online for the life of me