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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Seems to me he would cut those with a hacksaw of some kind and file the ends. That would be super safe and is how I'd do it myself. Only takes a few seconds to cut an aluminum angle. I agree with your warning about cutting with power tools.
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My DIY audio projects- PartTimeProjects.com. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: ohio
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#13 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I have bought Fischer most effective exstruded heatsink
But they do have welded heatsinks that are even more effective Bolting it together doesnt seem very effective Tho, you have the option of HUGE finning, and that itself might be very effective The first classA from LarsClausen(LCAudio) was a diy effort Four output devices were stacked and clamped tightly between sheets of aluminium It might have used forced air too I have always thought it seemed like a nice trick Last edited by tinitus; 19th November 2009 at 01:05 AM. |
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#14 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I bolted mine together, then welded on the angle that the amps attached to. VERY good thermal transfer efficiency:
Picture 517.jpg |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
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Nice photo - I do like that amp !
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"The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." Robert M Pirsig. |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
![]() If welding isnt a possible option long big T-profiles or mounting angles like below might also be useful to bolt on any kind of long finning But Im not sure that will be cheap either Last edited by tinitus; 19th November 2009 at 03:47 AM. |
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#17 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Quote:
Cut aluminium up to 5mm thick with a hand held circular saw heaps of times. With the right cutting saw it works great, and the large teeth don't clog up very easilly. Just make sure that everything is well clamped down and be prepared for the saw to jam occasionally. And if you're cutting a large sheet, wear ear protection coz goddamn it's bloody noisy. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Thank you all for your answers.
Since I received the advice to use screws on 2 different forums, screws will be. I've just bought them, actually. Arctic Silver makes several products, but the Ceramique is the most cost effective for large surfaces. Arctic Silver 5 for example would cost me twice as much, at least here in Romania that is, and would cover about 40% of the surface as compared to Ceramique. Same is true for the Arctic adhesives. At your advice I will use a hacksaw. Right now the only problem unsolved yet is whether I must or I may not remove the black layer of... how do you call it? - the result of anodizing - from the contact surface of the L shaped profile, that is, where the teeth will be in contact with the main aluminum sheet. I received contradictory advices in this respect, what do you think? Edit: yes, of course I will use eyes and hearing protection when working with the metal! Thanks for mentioning it, anyway. |
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#20 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: D-55629 Schwarzerden
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Quote:
But I think, to find standart devices like this one is more easy: http://sound.westhost.com/articles/diyhs-f4.gif http://sound.westhost.com/articles/diyhs-f6b.jpg |
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