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Old 21st November 2009, 12:37 PM   #21
Suricat is offline Suricat  Canada
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Jim, you've invested quite a bit in a nice amp and nice speakers. Please connect them with a low Z link ( (0 + j0)R ) as they were intended. A 16 awg or better 14, or 10. If you don't like this 'sound', I have to ask what is THE 'sound'. Consider also moving your furniture around in your room or the effect of drappes, etc.

Using CAT5 is a non sense. Might as well use CAT4, who knows, it may smooth the sound as it is lower bandwidth! And what does this means really? CAT5 is supposedely high bandwith, what f and at what load? (Why not use a RG-58 cable? I remember now, RG-58 is black and make the sound somewhat darker.) But if you insist, there is NO arm at using any wire that provides a reasonably low resistance (pure resistive component) and low impedance (L or C). Just make sure that the links are stable mechanically (corrosion and vibration) and that + and - will never touch. Forget about a Zobel network. What would be the intend? Render the Cat5 link electrically similar to a ZIP? This would defeat the purpose isn't it?

If your amp was designed seriously, it should be stable with Z variations. If you are not sure, please post your diagram or make and we'll look at it.

Good luck
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Old 21st November 2009, 01:03 PM   #22
Suricat is offline Suricat  Canada
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Jim,

I re-read the thread and saw your list. Below are my opinions:

--Sansui 350A (from about 1972)
--Sansui 4000 (from about 1972)
--Yamaha CR-1000 (from about 1977)
You are very lucky to have access to these guys. IMHO, the quasi-comp output stages of this era is far from today's HI-FI, but their sonic signature filled our teenage years so we love them. I honestly think that slight variations in Z (L+C) will not be noticeable given the already strong sonic signature. However, these are stability monsters with ample NFB. I do not have real data but would connect a cat5 to them without more concerns.

-- Sonic Impact T-amp, gen 2
Uhmm. Not sure. Someone else may comment on this. I would put forward that a Class D amp depends heavily on its load. I would be cautious about adding C or L components but then again, you are driving a speaker that is a big L. so.... I don't have an opinion.


--MiniWatt tube amp
Again no opinion because I know only silicon devices.

Good luck.
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Old 21st November 2009, 04:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Shearer View Post

cables he made using three lengths of CAT5 braided together
Before going to the effort of braiding 3 sets of CAT 5 together, try a pair of single strands (when you go to buy the roll, solid core, plenum grade (Teflon) is preferred). The higher resistance of the cable will help lower the damping factor on the those 1970s SS amps.

Is your Yamaha one of the ones with a Class A mode?

dave
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Old 22nd November 2009, 05:38 PM   #24
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Thanks Suricat. Two of the three classic receivers (4000, CR-1000) I bought in the '70s as an adult. I never could have afforded them as a teenager. The 350A was purchased used a few years ago to upgrade my office rig. And yes, I do like their sound! The only speaker they haven't played nice with is the F120a.

Dave: I bought a 500' spool of CAT5, so I have plenty to experiment with--and I plan to! Single pair, single cable, multi-cable... cheap fun!
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Old 23rd November 2009, 07:17 AM   #25
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I bought a 500' spool of CAT5, so I have plenty to experiment with--and I plan to! Single pair, single cable, multi-cable... cheap fun!
Isn't it wonderful to be able to play on the back's of the computer industries consumption of billions of miles of this stuff

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Old 6th December 2009, 05:16 PM   #26
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I to am very interested in Cat5 speaker cable.

Trying to work out the best way to link my active system:

Source - Pre-amp - Behringer DCX2496 - Rotel RB 956 AX 6 channel power amp, (using 5 as one channel is broken) - Active speaker left and right, Peerless dome tweeter, Peerless 5.5" mid, and one 15" Eminence Beta 15" sub in the centre.

How on earth do i build cat5 cable to these drivers? Do tweeters require less cable, guage?

Initial plans were to braid 3 runs for each driver, or perhaps bi-wire style braid 6.

However the plans below, through me slighty:

Click the image to open in full size.

Anyone know how many lengths of cat5 i need for individual drivers, 1=tweet, 3=mid, 4=woofer?
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Old 6th December 2009, 05:27 PM   #27
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go for the lowest inductance and ohmic impedance provided that the capacitance of that cable does not make your amp oszillate. the cables should be as short as possible. low inductance matters more in the treble and low ohmic loss matters more in the bass. i would give all cables the same parameters.
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Old 6th December 2009, 05:36 PM   #28
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huh?

Same parameters based on the individual drivers?

Or just make all the cables the same? Say triple braid to each driver?

The amp puts out about 40wpc, should be about 3m cable each side to the speakers
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Old 6th December 2009, 05:42 PM   #29
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i would need the exact input impedance of the drivers to give you more detailed advice.
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Old 6th December 2009, 05:55 PM   #30
jleaman is offline jleaman  Belgium
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Id say this one



Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by jleaman; 6th December 2009 at 06:03 PM.
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