Okay, I've completely checked every output transistor and driver and they all seem okay. Also, the lower tier PSU's are absolutely fine.
Is it possible that an opamp might be fried? There was actually a trace from a lower tier PSU that was fried. It seems to go from the common pole of the PSU to the opamps and some other stuff in the chain, such as the input circuitry.
Please, if anybody has the diagram for it, it would really help!
Thanks
-- Duo.
Is it possible that an opamp might be fried? There was actually a trace from a lower tier PSU that was fried. It seems to go from the common pole of the PSU to the opamps and some other stuff in the chain, such as the input circuitry.
Please, if anybody has the diagram for it, it would really help!
Thanks
-- Duo.
Vaporized ground traces?
Sounds like it had 120V on the input, stuff happens.
This usually comes in on the shield from another piece of equipment with a line phase reversal switch, like a guitar amp.
Try replacing everything on the balanced input card, usually mounted to the input jacks.
I used to work for a Carver authorized service center, but no longer have access to the schema, sorry.
Sounds like it had 120V on the input, stuff happens.
This usually comes in on the shield from another piece of equipment with a line phase reversal switch, like a guitar amp.
Try replacing everything on the balanced input card, usually mounted to the input jacks.
I used to work for a Carver authorized service center, but no longer have access to the schema, sorry.
Schematics Carver PM1.5
Hi,
I was browsing around this forum searching for service manual or schematics for the Carver PM1.5 power amplifier.
This f...ing amplifier started with a chopping sound from the power supply I found a loose orange cable, it was unsoldered on the PCB that are in the AC input circuit, this board is connected to what I can understand a PTC resistor, I fixed the bad soldering and switched it on BANG and POOF then silent night what to do well I need the service manual very badly.
Regards
Kamskoma
Hi,
I was browsing around this forum searching for service manual or schematics for the Carver PM1.5 power amplifier.
This f...ing amplifier started with a chopping sound from the power supply I found a loose orange cable, it was unsoldered on the PCB that are in the AC input circuit, this board is connected to what I can understand a PTC resistor, I fixed the bad soldering and switched it on BANG and POOF then silent night what to do well I need the service manual very badly.
Regards
Kamskoma
I used to do Carver warranty as well. I don't have the schematics any more.
First warning: the incoming AC is regulated by a triac. The mag coil does not like sine waves and will draw excessive current. You can short the triac and bring the AC up to around 40 V without too much worry. Watch the current draw as your fault may become worse if you are not careful.
This is not a normal amp so stay alert. There are three different supply voltages for the output stage that are switched through commutators (power transistors). Make sure when you are done that the supplies switch on, and more importantly - off.
It's sometimes faster to check all diodes and transistors to find a fault. I think I've seen the M1.0t manual on the web. It will give you a reasonable idea how this thing works.
One last warning: if you apply full AC to the mag coil, the supplies will be way too high and the damage will be impressive.
Carver corp is no longer in business, I miss talking to some of those guys.
-Chris
First warning: the incoming AC is regulated by a triac. The mag coil does not like sine waves and will draw excessive current. You can short the triac and bring the AC up to around 40 V without too much worry. Watch the current draw as your fault may become worse if you are not careful.
This is not a normal amp so stay alert. There are three different supply voltages for the output stage that are switched through commutators (power transistors). Make sure when you are done that the supplies switch on, and more importantly - off.
It's sometimes faster to check all diodes and transistors to find a fault. I think I've seen the M1.0t manual on the web. It will give you a reasonable idea how this thing works.
One last warning: if you apply full AC to the mag coil, the supplies will be way too high and the damage will be impressive.
Carver corp is no longer in business, I miss talking to some of those guys.
-Chris
The PM175 share the heritage of the PM1.5, but the schematics would not be helpful other than to see what the more complex 1.5 is like in comparison. The 175 is one large board as opposed to channel cards, power supply card etc. I also think the 175 has one less power supply.
The PM1.5 and the M1.5 ought to be very similar. A number of amps came in both flavors. The P stood for Professional and the Pro version was made more sturdy and ready for a pro rig. It is pretty hazy now, but I think the "t" suffix was for thermally enhanced. I think that was the one they added a couple more TO3s to the output.
Meanwhile, Carver Pro is alive and well at www.carverpro.com and they do have older technical info on file.
And Carver also made a lot of consumer audio gear. ANything made before 2004 is still supported by Bob Carver's current company SUnfire. See them at www.sunfire.com
The amps are interesting and sounded pretty good. But they are made for music. I remember the first time I serviced a PM1.5. It was blown up and I rebuilt it. It seemed to work fine. I did what I always did, I applied a sine wave to the input, and cranked it up to about 75% of full out and put it on loads. It thermalled out after a few minutes. I spent two days trying to cure this "problem." I finally called the factory and asked what I could do about a thermalling amp, and the guy provided some advice, and then he asked me what I was feeding it. SIne wave. "Oh, no wonder. They won't handle that for long."
SIne waves put a much tougher load on the amps than music. The Carvers are really good at what they are designed to do, but not so good at sine waves. I have since learned a lot more about commutating power supply amps.
The PM1.5 and the M1.5 ought to be very similar. A number of amps came in both flavors. The P stood for Professional and the Pro version was made more sturdy and ready for a pro rig. It is pretty hazy now, but I think the "t" suffix was for thermally enhanced. I think that was the one they added a couple more TO3s to the output.
Meanwhile, Carver Pro is alive and well at www.carverpro.com and they do have older technical info on file.
And Carver also made a lot of consumer audio gear. ANything made before 2004 is still supported by Bob Carver's current company SUnfire. See them at www.sunfire.com
The amps are interesting and sounded pretty good. But they are made for music. I remember the first time I serviced a PM1.5. It was blown up and I rebuilt it. It seemed to work fine. I did what I always did, I applied a sine wave to the input, and cranked it up to about 75% of full out and put it on loads. It thermalled out after a few minutes. I spent two days trying to cure this "problem." I finally called the factory and asked what I could do about a thermalling amp, and the guy provided some advice, and then he asked me what I was feeding it. SIne wave. "Oh, no wonder. They won't handle that for long."
SIne waves put a much tougher load on the amps than music. The Carvers are really good at what they are designed to do, but not so good at sine waves. I have since learned a lot more about commutating power supply amps.
PM1.5 problem
Hi all nice people,
I tought this was an easy task but I try to explain it again, when started this amp sounds from the amp itself like clickety clack clickety clack and the led displays was following this sound, I think this sound cames from the power supply I examined the input circuit and there was an orange cable to the TRIAC that was unsoldered I fixed it and switced the amp on "BANG POOF" then silent night, now... I need a service manual but it seems very difficult to get, I browsed to a site where nearly all user and some service manuals was listed but not this PM1.5.
Where I live it is 230V on the line so I think this construction seems to be a bit dangerous it is a lot of ******** in the 230V primary but it has worked so it would be nice to repair it.
Regards
Kamskoma
Hi all nice people,
I tought this was an easy task but I try to explain it again, when started this amp sounds from the amp itself like clickety clack clickety clack and the led displays was following this sound, I think this sound cames from the power supply I examined the input circuit and there was an orange cable to the TRIAC that was unsoldered I fixed it and switced the amp on "BANG POOF" then silent night, now... I need a service manual but it seems very difficult to get, I browsed to a site where nearly all user and some service manuals was listed but not this PM1.5.
Where I live it is 230V on the line so I think this construction seems to be a bit dangerous it is a lot of ******** in the 230V primary but it has worked so it would be nice to repair it.
Regards
Kamskoma
Carver blow out
The Carver blow out! the silent night was a fuse in my outlet ramp, so I'm back where it begins a clickety clack sound, I think it may be some problem in the Triac circuit it have some small components like optocouplers and small diodes, so I need that schematics I was asking for please help me with this maybe we can swap some schematics I have some Linn schematics.
The Carver blow out! the silent night was a fuse in my outlet ramp, so I'm back where it begins a clickety clack sound, I think it may be some problem in the Triac circuit it have some small components like optocouplers and small diodes, so I need that schematics I was asking for please help me with this maybe we can swap some schematics I have some Linn schematics.
Secret
Have a look at: ftp://208.187.38.55/Carver/Manuals/pm/
The manaul for the PM175 is there, but without schematics. But some other models have the schematics included in the manual, like the PM1201.
Steven
Have a look at: ftp://208.187.38.55/Carver/Manuals/pm/
The manaul for the PM175 is there, but without schematics. But some other models have the schematics included in the manual, like the PM1201.
Steven
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.