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Old 2nd September 2009, 11:11 AM   #11
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Thanks for the responces. The inpugt occ wire is soldered. I use crimps on power and on speaker cables. The pcb are identical exactly. Anyway there is one way to find the truth and this is to remove the crimps at least from the speaker cables and we will see
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Old 2nd September 2009, 11:35 AM   #12
acid_k2 is offline acid_k2  Italy
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@kzeprf22: you could also trace the signals in both amps with a distortion analyser


@cliff: crimp terminals are used in airplane and car because there are a lot of vibrations, and a solder joint is mechanically weak. Vibrations help to keep the contact surface free from oxide and dust. Amplifiers is a bit different... unless you use it in a automotive environment .
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Old 2nd September 2009, 12:30 PM   #13
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First, there are crimp terminals and then there are crimp terminals, not all are equal.
The crimp tool is much of the story. The tools must be adjusted and calibrated at regular intervals.
OT: Do not solder/tin wire the wire ends when using screw terminals. The solder will cold-flow with temperature changes and the terminal will loosen.
Terminals are not soldered after crimping. As this will create a hard spot and vibration will cause the wire strands to fracture at that point.
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Old 2nd September 2009, 02:37 PM   #14
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every type of connection has the good one and the bad one imho.
I believe that on 0,1% of total distortion crimp terminal can influence for not more of 0,00001%
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Old 2nd September 2009, 03:28 PM   #15
taj is offline taj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
Is there a way to get the cable grip tangs to pierce the insulation?
Hi Andrew,

Have you tried sharpening the tangs and using a crimper to bend them down instead of just squishing them with pliers (or whatever)? Might work, but sharpening them is a lot of effort.

Piercing the insulator also introduces air into the strand bundle allowing for some potential oxidation which might cause problems down the road.

..Todd
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Old 2nd September 2009, 03:38 PM   #16
taj is offline taj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kzeprf22 View Post
My friend is very experianced
audiphile with very good and sensitive speakers, Generally I trust him.
Hmm... a Greek Audiophile... I saw a video about them once. I thought the turntable stand was 50% of the sound?

Seriously, a 'very experienced audiophile' is, in my opinion, usually someone who has carefully developed an acute sensory imagination and obtuse quantum theories.

..Todd

Last edited by taj; 2nd September 2009 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 4th September 2009, 06:40 AM   #17
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Finally, I reworked all the AMP. My mistake was that for quick release issues I had everything with crimps. From power (DC AC) to speakers (from amp board to protection board to output sockets). Anyway I have them all now directly soldered.
I tested in my environment and yes is sounding different from before, more open.
Anyway I don want to sound guru or something it just sounded to me a little better. I do not know the degree but it was quite noticable. I will deliver to him and I will see his impresions
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Old 4th September 2009, 04:09 PM   #18
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Default Solder is always a guarantee.

regards,

Carlos
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Old 4th September 2009, 07:16 PM   #19
fotios is offline fotios  Greece
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Tyco Electronics - AMP MATE-N-LOCK series multipole connectors, offers pcb headers either with male or femalle gold plated contacts, as well free cable housings with gold plated crimp pins or sockets. Current rating is 15A, so can be used in all power points.
For small signal cables, Molex offers simillar headers - crimp housings with gold plated contacts.
I attach you a pdf doc. to look the details of a MATE-N-LOCK.
For Molex small headers-crimp housings, take a look in Farnell or RS Components site.
Take a look and in the site of Selectronic.Fr which offers a lot of parts for Hi-Fi or Hi-End use, like gold plated terminals, solder tags etc.

Fotios
Attached Files
File Type: pdf AMP 350761.pdf (61.3 KB, 26 views)
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Old 5th September 2009, 09:14 AM   #20
djk is offline djk
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Crimp type faston (blade type push-on) terminals on speakers degrade the sound quite a bit, even on new speakers.

I always cut them off, strip the wire, and solder direcly to the speaker terminals.

I've compared amplifiers that had Caig De-Oxit applied to all the push-on terminals inside an amplifier, a large difference may be heard in high-frequency clarity.

I've cut off all the internal push-on connectors in some models of McIntosh amplifiers and picked up a lot of clarity.
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