bugle capacitors....

piwonka · 12th August 2009, 04:09 PM

looking at this schematic
http://hagtech.com/images/bugleschem.gif

it looks like C1 is the cap that's in the signal path. am right in assuming this would be the cap most affecting sound?

thanks.

Lumba Ogir · 12th August 2009, 04:33 PM

Howdy,
bad news, all caps are in the signal path effecting the sound.

Jan Dupont · 12th August 2009, 05:31 PM

Lumba is right

All caps should be of highest quality (that goes for all RIAAs and other eq circuits)

piwonka · 12th August 2009, 05:45 PM

one thing i'm wondering.
caps c8 and c11 jim said should have short leads to keep inductance down. i swapped some jantzen zcaps in those positions by putting them on the underside (before i found that post jim made).
leads are maybe 2.5-3" long (but larger diameter than the other caps). what type of cap would be good to use there? the holes in the board are probably a half inch apart and there is not much room to put something there.

the rest of the caps are jantzen crosscaps with the exception of two being audiocaps because partsexpress was sold out of the crosscap in that size...

changing the caps really brought out the highs and cleared up the sound of everything, was just thinking maybe it could be a bit warmer...the caps probably only have about 4-6 hours of use so far though.

Lumba Ogir · 12th August 2009, 07:32 PM

can see no c8 and c11

piwonka · 12th August 2009, 07:46 PM

right here.
http://hagtech.com/pdf/bugle.pdf

the little caps between the opamps...

taj · 12th August 2009, 07:53 PM

piwonka,

It sounds like you're using high voltage radial passive crossover caps for a low voltage active circuit. In my opinion that's a very large (and potentially expensive) overkill (which you're entirely welcome to ignore).

Most folks would use something like a Wima (or whichever brand you favour) MKP (metallized) or FKP (film/foil) polypropylene capacitors like these: http://www.wima.com/EN/fkp3.htm that are made for PCB mounting.

Polystyrene and silver-mica caps are also commonly used for that application if they are available in the appropriate value (tons on eBay).

..Todd

piwonka · 12th August 2009, 07:58 PM

lol. yeah. i had the caps in hand and got carried away

Lumba Ogir · 12th August 2009, 08:10 PM

piwonka,
battery supply ensures clean power. You could increase the value of C7/C10 using some audio-grade type. C8/C11 should preferably be polypropylene.

12th August 2009, 04:09 PM	#1
piwonka diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	bugle capacitors.... looking at this schematic http://hagtech.com/images/bugleschem.gif it looks like C1 is the cap that's in the signal path. am right in assuming this would be the cap most affecting sound? thanks.

12th August 2009, 05:31 PM	#3
Jan Dupont diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark	Lumba is right All caps should be of highest quality (that goes for all RIAAs and other eq circuits) __________________ Free Schematic and Service Manual downloads www.audio-circuit.dk, Company: www.dupont-audio.com, Joint venture: www.DupontMantra.com

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12th August 2009, 04:33 PM	#2
Lumba Ogir Banned Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Stockholm	Howdy, bad news, all caps are in the signal path effecting the sound.

12th August 2009, 05:45 PM	#4
piwonka diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	one thing i'm wondering. caps c8 and c11 jim said should have short leads to keep inductance down. i swapped some jantzen zcaps in those positions by putting them on the underside (before i found that post jim made). leads are maybe 2.5-3" long (but larger diameter than the other caps). what type of cap would be good to use there? the holes in the board are probably a half inch apart and there is not much room to put something there. the rest of the caps are jantzen crosscaps with the exception of two being audiocaps because partsexpress was sold out of the crosscap in that size... changing the caps really brought out the highs and cleared up the sound of everything, was just thinking maybe it could be a bit warmer...the caps probably only have about 4-6 hours of use so far though.

12th August 2009, 07:32 PM	#5
Lumba Ogir Banned Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Stockholm	can see no c8 and c11

12th August 2009, 07:46 PM	#6
piwonka diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	right here. http://hagtech.com/pdf/bugle.pdf the little caps between the opamps...

12th August 2009, 07:53 PM	#7
taj diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005	piwonka, It sounds like you're using high voltage radial passive crossover caps for a low voltage active circuit. In my opinion that's a very large (and potentially expensive) overkill (which you're entirely welcome to ignore). Most folks would use something like a Wima (or whichever brand you favour) MKP (metallized) or FKP (film/foil) polypropylene capacitors like these: http://www.wima.com/EN/fkp3.htm that are made for PCB mounting. Polystyrene and silver-mica caps are also commonly used for that application if they are available in the appropriate value (tons on eBay). ..Todd

12th August 2009, 07:58 PM	#8
piwonka diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	lol. yeah. i had the caps in hand and got carried away

12th August 2009, 08:10 PM	#9
Lumba Ogir Banned Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Stockholm	piwonka, battery supply ensures clean power. You could increase the value of C7/C10 using some audio-grade type. C8/C11 should preferably be polypropylene.

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