A little help choosing an amp

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Hi again guys,
Im looking into an amp to replace my Cambridge Azur 340A, its not a bad amp, the mids and highs are good but the bass is lacking and the thing runs out of power too easily...
Im using a pair of Q Acoustic 1050, floorstanding speakers and a Wharfedale Diamond SW150 Subwoofer, so basicly I want an amp to give the 1050's a bit more grunt, and as Im planning on selling the sub it has to produce a respectable amount of bass.
Im not at all afraid of mods, I still am a bit of building from scratch but im good with replacing caps, diodes etc.
I was thinking of a Pioneer A400, with mods, or a Rotel or something. Anybody know a good, moddable amp for up to £300ish? Preferably £200ish if possible.
Also like the look of the Marantz PM7200, as it can operate in class a mode, and is powerful.
Cheers,
Will
 
The Azur 340 only has a record out; plus I was kinda thinking about condensing my sound system in the long run as next September (Not this sept but one after, gap year!!) Im heading to uni . Infact there is one thing I have to bragg about quickly on this forum:
I have a friend who's father is Mark Dodd, head of research at Kef/Celestion in Ipswich; and Im totally getting work experience there!!! =D
Back to the point, I basicly want to cut my floorstanders, sub, amp into a smaller package, aka a pair of b&w 685's and an amp, or something like that. So Id rather an integrated amplifer to save space and cash.
But I do like the sound of those kit amps... Could they out do the marrantz?
 
Was just thinking actually, I do a bit of Dj-ing Drum N Bass and Dubstep (Heavily bassy music). So would it be possible to use my mixer for my turntables as a pre-amp?
I know to sound good it would have to be good (current mixer is awefull... :/), but if I shelled out a bit more on a very good mixer would this be a feasible/ advisable plan?
 
Mate, if its not how I like it, then I'll do something about it! :)
Im just wondering, would it be worth modding the 340A, spending lots of time and money, or would it be better to buy a marrantz PM7200 and then modify that? As I have a gap year, so plenty of time to raise funds and mod, as well as teaching myself to mod; as its gonna take a lot! :p
I tell ya... The Art of Electronics is bloody hard reading!!!
 
my 2c: if you really want to learn about the amps, build one from scratch, a relatively simple ClassAB. You can save some hassle by buying an old stereo amp to get the chasis, power supply and connectors etc. then just make up the amp. Modifying somebody else's work can be frustrating as you have to get inside their thoughts and ideas. If you carry out modifications on an existing amp by following instructions on the internet you have less risk but then you learn next to nothing. Just my 2c. Mate ;-)
 
The result will be deep and strong bass, in special if you

increase your supply filters...as they are too much small to face almost 2.5 amperes each rail.

The final result is that you gonna complain the treble has disappeared..... and NEGATIVE...has not disappeared, it is there, into the same level...the trouble is that when you increase basses you felt the treble as gone.... those things must be ballanced..so..you have to increase those capacitors in steps and listen to feel what happened..if you install the 2200uf you gonna be happy with the Bass and will complain about the treble...try 100uf, 220uf, 470uf, 1000uf and them 2200uf.

If no result..them the coupling capacitors, into the entire circuit, were designed not to reproduce deep bass not to make the chip start to switch the protection automatically..and that protection uses to kill the sonics..as limits the surge current.

Be happy...but believe me..you may be searching for trebles tomorrow...better is to tweak your speaker.

regards,

Carlos
 

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No one can help you Professor...sorry..will continue blocked

I do not hate you.... i just perceive that is a waste of time try to help you.

regards,

Carlos

.............................................................

This capacitor increase is not the bootstrapp, it is the feedback one... this one here...of course this schematic is mine..not an Aksa..but Aksa uses the same idea.
 

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Legends, cheers guys.
Destroyer X, couldn't have asked for more there.
Oh and Bigun, I see exactly what you mean; It;s just for now Im doing what I can on a very tight budget, aka my allowance and EMA from the government (Booyah!!).
Yeah I know get a job... :p
But yeah, basicly Im just doing this as Im always worried building an amp from scratch that there is potential to mess it up, and have killed a lot of money, or that I'll get stuck and not be able to complete due to lack of tools, supplies etc. I know Im equally as likely to blow the 340A, but at least I know that if I shove something in and it doesnt work then I can take it out again to return to normal, assuming it wasn't a small explosive or rodent.
As far as learning goes, from what I know Im guessing that C38 and thus C22 aswell are part of the feedback loop of the amp, combined with R65 there's an RC circuit going down.
Trouble is thats about were my knowledge ends; I can vaguely recognise parts and just about recognise there part in the circuit but I don't really know what they actually do.

Cheers,

Will
 
Also chaps, I was pondering: Surely these mods which will result in more bass, will also result in more heat being produced? Would it be worth looking into modding the heatsink on it? As often when I take my system to parties I end up fanning the amp with a vinyl so it doesn't cut out! :p
 
Hi,
the amp is rated as safe with a 4r0 (resistor) load.
use 8ohm speakers and it will stay cooler and play better. Look ast the datasheet to get some idea of how the higher load impedance improves performance.
Do not use 4ohm speakers, nor 6ohm speakers nor 4 to 8ohm speakers.
The 8ohm will not require a bigger heatsink if you keep the air around the sink cool.

Do not use chipamps for parties. They were designed for inside TVs and similar cheap products. Now they are being stretched to general domestic duty and are incapable of PA, Disco, or Party duty.
 
AndrewT said:
Hi,
the amp is rated as safe with a 4r0 (resistor) load.
use 8ohm speakers and it will stay cooler and play better. Look ast the datasheet to get some idea of how the higher load impedance improves performance.
Do not use 4ohm speakers, nor 6ohm speakers nor 4 to 8ohm speakers.
The 8ohm will not require a bigger heatsink if you keep the air around the sink cool.

Do not use chipamps for parties. They were designed for inside TVs and similar cheap products. Now they are being stretched to general domestic duty and are incapable of PA, Disco, or Party duty.

Wouldnt you imagine that most modern speakers vary from 4-8 ohm?

For example I think B&W speakers can dip to 2ohm
 
Ah, well my Q Acoustic 1050s are 6ohm, so I'll keep that in mind when buying my next set.
So is the difference between chip amps and transistor amps that transistor amps use discrete transistor setups to amplify whereas chip amps use ICs?
Also, why can't I use my amp for parties?
I know its not designed for large scale things but Im not talking raves here, just house parties, and I let everyone know that if they fiddle with switches I'll decapitate them, so volume noobs aint a problem.
Also I've read that replacing diodes I think in the rectifier bridge (Correct me if Im wrong) can improve performance? Using faster switching diodes or something like that?
 
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