What kind of solder do you guys like to use?

Uncle Olaf · 16th May 2009, 07:08 AM

Hey All,

I am new to this forum, but have been playing around with electronics for some time. Do you guys (and gals) favor a particular brand of solder? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Regards, Jon 'Uncle Olaf'

jaycee · 16th May 2009, 07:32 AM

I'm dreading my last rolls of 60/40 running out :x

Babowana · 16th May 2009, 07:45 AM

I use this for all my diy audio . . .

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Samuel Jayaraj · 16th May 2009, 08:38 AM

I use both 60/40 as well as 2% silver stuff. The latter is a quick setting type and requires good whetting and good soldering iron. Otherwise, I have not yet picked up any sonic differences between the two.

Frank Berry · 16th May 2009, 08:41 AM

Kester "44" #66/44 .031"
I've used the "lead-free" solder. I hate it.

AndrewT · 16th May 2009, 01:50 PM

Stock up on a lifetimes supply of 63Sn/37Pb in various diameters, 16g to 26g.

ostripper · 16th May 2009, 02:57 PM

Luckily , RoHS has not fully caught on here. Radio shack(Tandy) , Mouser, MCM and others will continue to sell Sn/Pb for the forseeable future.

All the RS solders are VERY good quality but a bit heavy on the rosin. Mixed with some of the copper/selenium/silver solders for plumbing,one can make a current enhancing PCB "mix" to augment rails traces for large amplifiers.

On the flip side , the new RoHS FR-4 PCB's are tougher , (traces will not lift , even after minutes) as to facilitate the higher temperatures. I put a piece under the blowtorch , the board burned away before even small traces lifted. One can rework a board 100 times and never worry about damage.

Standard 60/40 (same stuff they sold 25 tears ago)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062715

The kester page..
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/638/2148.pdf

Idiot proof FR-4..
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/500.html

OS

john curl · 16th May 2009, 07:34 PM

SN62 or SN63 are OK. 60:40 is marginal, try to get a good brand of solder if possible, because of differences in age, and flux.

sparcnut · 16th May 2009, 08:48 PM

Another vote for Kester #44 0.031 (60/40) here. The non-eutectic mix does not bother me, you'll have problems if you jiggle the joint with any solder. The key is to have a clean iron tip and lowish temperature to avoid losing the flux too quickly. Maintain a clean tip and the good thermal contact means joints will still heat almost instantly.

I also have a half-height spool of Radio Shack solder that works fine too. It's marked "Standard Rosin Core Solder" and is also 60/40.

john curl · 16th May 2009, 09:22 PM

Better to use SN63, at minimum, IF you can find it. Trust me, cold joints are something to avoid.

16th May 2009, 07:08 AM	#1
Uncle Olaf diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2009	What kind of solder do you guys like to use? Hey All, I am new to this forum, but have been playing around with electronics for some time. Do you guys (and gals) favor a particular brand of solder? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Regards, Jon 'Uncle Olaf'

16th May 2009, 08:41 AM	#5
Frank Berry diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Midland, Michigan	Kester "44" #66/44 .031" I've used the "lead-free" solder. I hate it. __________________ Frank

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16th May 2009, 07:32 AM	#2
jaycee diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Norwich, UK	I'm dreading my last rolls of 60/40 running out :x

16th May 2009, 08:38 AM	#4
Samuel Jayaraj diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Bangalore, India	I use both 60/40 as well as 2% silver stuff. The latter is a quick setting type and requires good whetting and good soldering iron. Otherwise, I have not yet picked up any sonic differences between the two. __________________ Sam

16th May 2009, 01:50 PM	#6
AndrewT diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Scottish Borders	Stock up on a lifetimes supply of 63Sn/37Pb in various diameters, 16g to 26g. __________________ regards Andrew T.

16th May 2009, 02:57 PM	#7
ostripper diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)	Luckily , RoHS has not fully caught on here. Radio shack(Tandy) , Mouser, MCM and others will continue to sell Sn/Pb for the forseeable future. All the RS solders are VERY good quality but a bit heavy on the rosin. Mixed with some of the copper/selenium/silver solders for plumbing,one can make a current enhancing PCB "mix" to augment rails traces for large amplifiers. On the flip side , the new RoHS FR-4 PCB's are tougher , (traces will not lift , even after minutes) as to facilitate the higher temperatures. I put a piece under the blowtorch , the board burned away before even small traces lifted. One can rework a board 100 times and never worry about damage. Standard 60/40 (same stuff they sold 25 tears ago) http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062715 The kester page.. http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/638/2148.pdf Idiot proof FR-4.. http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/500.html OS

16th May 2009, 07:34 PM	#8
john curl diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: berkeley ca	SN62 or SN63 are OK. 60:40 is marginal, try to get a good brand of solder if possible, because of differences in age, and flux.

16th May 2009, 08:48 PM	#9
sparcnut diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2007	Another vote for Kester #44 0.031 (60/40) here. The non-eutectic mix does not bother me, you'll have problems if you jiggle the joint with any solder. The key is to have a clean iron tip and lowish temperature to avoid losing the flux too quickly. Maintain a clean tip and the good thermal contact means joints will still heat almost instantly. I also have a half-height spool of Radio Shack solder that works fine too. It's marked "Standard Rosin Core Solder" and is also 60/40.

16th May 2009, 09:22 PM	#10
john curl diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: berkeley ca	Better to use SN63, at minimum, IF you can find it. Trust me, cold joints are something to avoid.

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