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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Hello,
I am in the process of building a digital church organ (for my home). I'm beginning to think about speakers and amplification which will be probably 8 independent channels in total. I've almost settled on some speaker designs which I intend to build around Common Sense Super 8 drivers along with a subwoofer to handle the lower frequency. I'm now turning my attention to amplification. I know very little about this area, but I am willing to learn. Basically as an opening question, which chip and associated design should I be looking at if I am wanting 30W of power per channel and excellent quality sound reproduction? I have started looking the LM4765 which seems good, I would need 4 of these to get the appropriate channels. Would these be appropriate for driving subs? I'm particularly interested to hear about chips with the availability of printed PCB/Kits? Many thanks, James |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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30W/ch deems on the lightweight side if you're trying to duplicate a pipe organ, but most older Hammonds (such as the B-3) usually had a 50W amp in them, which provided more than enough volume for small-to-medium size churches.
the devices you mention should work well, and take up a lot less space than the old Hammond amp chassis did. with 4 channels and a bit of trickery in the preamp, you can even duplicate the effect of a real Leslie cabinet (4 flangers with synchronized control voltages 90 degrees apart from each other?). just an idea..... as long as this is in your home, 30W/ch should be more tham sufficient. i've heard the results of trying to duplicate the sound of a BIG pipe organ in a large hall using amplification, and the results were not anywhere the real thing, mainly because a pipe organ moves a LOT of air. i helped repair one when i was young and remember that the blower fan was about the same size as the blower on a commercial air conditioning unit, plus the fact that some of the pipes on this beast were 32 feet tall and a foot in diameter.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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The trouble with the LM4765 will be that it is next to unheatsinkable, if you go for its maximum output power. The subwoofer will be better off with its own amplifier. Maybe one or several LM3886, if you go for chipamps. A beefy solid state amplifier would be even better. Church organs can go down to 16 Hz and there is a lot of SPL involved to make tones at that frequency heard. Link
Here is some good reading about power requirements for a subwoofer in relation to frequency and SPL. Will your speakers be up to that task? For the other channels the 20 W per channel you can reasonably expect from the LM4765 will probably be enough. By the way, there is a Chipamp Forum here.
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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I was in a church that had replaced their, too expensive to repair, organ with an electronic keyboard.
They ended up with 8 off 15inch drivers in one enormous open baffle to get closer to what they were used to. I have no idea how much power or how many channels were dedicated to the speaker system. |
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#5 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I accidentally posted in this forum - I did email the admin asking for this post to be moved but they perhaps not seen my message.
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Many thanks all, James |
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#6 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
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You can extend those curves to imagine the SPL that a church organ produces at 16 Hz, so that we perceive it as loud. And church organs can reproduce that note really loud, you will know that from experience. Quote:
Displacement volume means woofers with a lot of surface area and long-stroke. In the other link I pointed you to the Linkwitz site. He uses a 12" woofer with 12,5 mm stroke. At 20 Hz he achieves 104 dB with it, which corresponds to ~40 on equal loudness, more or less a loud whisper. He also shows the power requirements. Above the resonance frequency the power requirements grow extremely. Even a solid state amp will be hard pushed to deliver that amount of power. A chipamp is usually limited to something around 50-60 W. And before you start bridging and/or paralleling chipamps to increase the output, you should consider to either build a solid state amp for the subwoofer or to buy a plate amp for that task.
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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pacificBlue - A fantastic explanation - many thanks for taking the time. I will look at the links you have posted in detail.
At this stage I am going to focus on thinking about amplifiers for the higher frequencies (non sub woofers) through the Super 10 speakers which can handle up to 50W, although it is unlikely that they will be driven to the max given the space they will operate in. Would the LM4780 be appropriate for this load? Given what you've said about heat sinks, I do not want to install additional fans? James |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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also, look at pro-audio speaker designs. they achieve between 95 to 110 db@1watt@1meter sensitivities, which is quite a bit more efficient than standard home audio speaker designs. i regularly repair 200W home audio powered subs, and i know they're running 200W. because i can measure it, but i've heard pro bass cabinets that are louder while running 10 watts through them. i think the majority of small sub cabinets, whether ported or using passive subs just don't move enough air. a lot of these are using 8" or 10" drivers, and they just don't move enough air volume to efficiently couple the long wavelengths to the surrounding environment. i've seen cabinets, that while they are larger and use 15" and 18" drivers are so efficient that the cones barely move, but have a tendency to blow the stuffing out of the port, and they're almost deafening at 10 to 50 watts. in a home environment you might not have enough space for one of these larger cabinets, but there are efficient compromises you can make, such as a bandpass cabinet or a dipole cabinet. there is a program available for free that can give you the dimensions for a cabinet if you have a) the required rolloff frequency, and b) have some idea of what drivers you intend on using. i don't remember exactly what it is called..... speakerlab, i think.... i've got it installed on another machine.... it will even tell you if you need to change port sizes if the air velocity goes above mach 1.
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Is this the Super 10? High efficiency and 8 Ohm speak for it. Its limited stroke against. It will need a 200-300 Hz high-pass to keep it operating within its linear stroke, if you want to play it loud. That is too high for a subwoofer, and would call for an additional woofer per box. The relatively high mass of a 10" full-range driver requires high current in the upper frequency range. Chipamps like easy loads and dispose of a limited amount of current. It is of course a matter of trying it, to know for sure, but if you want a guess, I'd say it is not the best match. The specs of this speaker seem to say tube amp or class A, not chipamp. And also SPL on the civilized side of loud.
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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