DH110
Found it!
What about a simple buffer o/p with maybe k170/j74 as per JC?
I generally like the results from Shunt regs PSUs - there's a Group Buy pcb coming together (the B1 + Salas shunt) that'll fit well.
I recently got some of those PETP caps over from the Ukraine as an alternative to some of the PPs I generally use - quite remarkable. I got mainly the K73-16s 63volt ones for my F3 and Xovers to see just how good they were.
Then ordered some of the K75-10 and K40-9s (on the way) to widen the choices. I remember that if you can get enough volts across these animals, they function very well. We'll see.
Found it!
What about a simple buffer o/p with maybe k170/j74 as per JC?
I generally like the results from Shunt regs PSUs - there's a Group Buy pcb coming together (the B1 + Salas shunt) that'll fit well.
I recently got some of those PETP caps over from the Ukraine as an alternative to some of the PPs I generally use - quite remarkable. I got mainly the K73-16s 63volt ones for my F3 and Xovers to see just how good they were.
Then ordered some of the K75-10 and K40-9s (on the way) to widen the choices. I remember that if you can get enough volts across these animals, they function very well. We'll see.
Ah yeah you are thinking along the same lines
the JC2 with 2sk's may fit right into the board layout.
also the rca jacks are prone to corrrode giving contact rectification resulting in awfull sound, I replaced mine with gold ones seems like they came from Mouser electronics, they were a direct solder in replacement. Not sure if they still sell them though .
Actually with these simple changes you get a pretty decent preamp.
with all the DH220's and dh500's out there Iam puzzled why there seems to be so few DH110 preamps.
somewhere I have a redrawn schematic that I did with Circuitmaker 200 pro I will see if I can find it and post it.
the JC2 with 2sk's may fit right into the board layout.
also the rca jacks are prone to corrrode giving contact rectification resulting in awfull sound, I replaced mine with gold ones seems like they came from Mouser electronics, they were a direct solder in replacement. Not sure if they still sell them though .
Actually with these simple changes you get a pretty decent preamp.
with all the DH220's and dh500's out there Iam puzzled why there seems to be so few DH110 preamps.
somewhere I have a redrawn schematic that I did with Circuitmaker 200 pro I will see if I can find it and post it.
Is your redrawn schematic with the JFETinput mod? Would like a peek at it!
Nothing like dragging up a 10 year old thread!
Anyway, my preamps, DH-110 and NAC C5 are getting long on the tooth. Way past re-cap time most likely. So revisiting various threads.
First, clean contacts, recap with SOP, I guess Panasonics. Building a new I/O board as it is way too corroded.
Not interested in expensive replacement boards, so I was looking at the circuit.
First thought was LT regulators. Drop in replacement, Add a heat sink.
Probably shottky rectifier diodes. Maybe bigger input caps.
Adding film caps across C23 and C24.
Will add a simple buffer for a mono sub out.
Adding in a little 12V supply for remote control. I may put in a USB jack and relay so it powers up with the music server, then the 12V out brings up the main AC buss strip.
Next I was looking at the line stage. It occurred to me that replacing the tails, R30 and R31, with a CCS would be beneficial. But with a well regulated supply, is it really?
I see all sorts of comments on why a JFet mute is bad. Would a bleeder resister before the output cap help with any DC offset accumulated in the caps so the mute was not needed in the first place? Adding a BJT to the comparator and a relay would be pretty easy. Thoughts?
Another thought was to just replace the line stage with just a modern OP-Amp. They have gotten terribly good.
I suspect a schematic error. Power for the comparators I assume is the X and Z (R52/R54) not the + and - rails. I have not opened it up to check, just planning based on the schematic.
Anyway, my preamps, DH-110 and NAC C5 are getting long on the tooth. Way past re-cap time most likely. So revisiting various threads.
First, clean contacts, recap with SOP, I guess Panasonics. Building a new I/O board as it is way too corroded.
Not interested in expensive replacement boards, so I was looking at the circuit.
First thought was LT regulators. Drop in replacement, Add a heat sink.
Probably shottky rectifier diodes. Maybe bigger input caps.
Adding film caps across C23 and C24.
Will add a simple buffer for a mono sub out.
Adding in a little 12V supply for remote control. I may put in a USB jack and relay so it powers up with the music server, then the 12V out brings up the main AC buss strip.
Next I was looking at the line stage. It occurred to me that replacing the tails, R30 and R31, with a CCS would be beneficial. But with a well regulated supply, is it really?
I see all sorts of comments on why a JFet mute is bad. Would a bleeder resister before the output cap help with any DC offset accumulated in the caps so the mute was not needed in the first place? Adding a BJT to the comparator and a relay would be pretty easy. Thoughts?
Another thought was to just replace the line stage with just a modern OP-Amp. They have gotten terribly good.
I suspect a schematic error. Power for the comparators I assume is the X and Z (R52/R54) not the + and - rails. I have not opened it up to check, just planning based on the schematic.
Has anyone checked to see if this DH-101 kit will fit in a DH-110?
I don't know much about the DH-101:
https://www.updatemydynaco.com/documents/DH101JackFieldReplacementsAssemblyManualRev1p0.pdf
The mute FETs in mine went dead and I think it would be best to replace them
with a relay - or figure out what, perhaps out of spec condition, is killing them.
I don't know much about the DH-101:
https://www.updatemydynaco.com/documents/DH101JackFieldReplacementsAssemblyManualRev1p0.pdf
The mute FETs in mine went dead and I think it would be best to replace them
with a relay - or figure out what, perhaps out of spec condition, is killing them.
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