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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I got tired of having those minimalist preamps with no features. I like a remote control. I like gain matching between inputs. I like balance. I like LED displays. So I started designing a new preamp, the design of which is about 80% complete. The basics are:
Two channels (dual mono) 3 balanced inputs 6 unbalanced inputs 2 balanced outputs (for bi-amplification) CS3318 programmable gain attenuator/amplifier OPA1632 line drivers Choice of DC, AC, and transformer coupling on the inputs Remote control 8-character 5x7 LED display Analog stuff is powered from super-regulated +/-9V supplies, with separate secondaries for each channel. Digital 3.3V power comes from a separate transformer and power supply. I'm just starting to come to grips with the amount of drawing necessary, but I have the power supplies, the input controls, and the preamp channels mostly drawn. I'll post them up here when I complete each bit. Here's one channel, although the symbols for the single-ended inputs run off the bottom. If you can't read it, a PDF is also attached. And the preliminary bill of materials is also attached for reference. Link to BOM Link to PDF |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
What kind of microprocessor are you going to use? An atmel? Have fun, Hannes
__________________
fresh matched IRFP240/IRFP9240 fets F5 transistor kits || Burning Amp BA-1/2/3 transistor kits |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ΔΡΑΜΑ - North Greece
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Hi jwb
If you have not already thought... and because you will use a MCU... take a look in latching type relays with double coils (like set and reset) for use as input selectors. There are two options of almost same quality. Panasonic DS2E and Omron G6AK. Beneffit of latching type it is obviously their mechanical armature to keep the contacts in place without the need of continuous operation of coils, thus absence of any EMI in the input signal. Fotios |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taipei, Taiwan
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looks cool - nic e simple and elegant.
don't use atmel . . . . they may not be around in 6 months time. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
That would hurt as I only own an atmel-programmer Anyway, that wouldn't be the first occasion using obsolete parts Have fun, Hannes EDIT: by the way, thanks fotios for the tip - a very elegant suggestion!
__________________
fresh matched IRFP240/IRFP9240 fets F5 transistor kits || Burning Amp BA-1/2/3 transistor kits |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
And yes I was planning to use an AVR since that's what I know how to program best. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Note also that any thermal EMF across the relay should appear as common mode noise at the input, and the CMRR of this circuit is ridiculously high.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ΔΡΑΜΑ - North Greece
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Quote:
Fotios |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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In a latching relay the contact itself is a permanent magnet.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Correct. And it's not the contacts themselves that are magnetic anyway. The contacts are carried on metal strips which are themselve attached to a steel plate. It is this plate that is spring-loaded and actuated by the electromagnetic pole piece of the relay.
Better relays sometimes even have gold plated silver contacts (certainly non-magnetic). |
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