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Gas Ampzilla
I Live in Adelaide Australia.
I have an original GAS Ampzilla amp and one channel is now no output. Repair tech has testedand said there is no output in the 2 pairs of output transistors GAS 101 (both) and GAS 102 (both) He claims the closest equivalent isMJE 15003 which he claims should have adequate volt and amp capacity. Has anyone any ideas on suitability. or my best substitutes for these transistors (GAS) ? With the advent of home theatre 7.1 etc, these amps, although superb, are becoming "not worth repairing". I am after the most economical reliable fix. Regards, mharry |
As long as they are not counterfeit, the MJ15003/04 will work.
The MJ21193/94 are much better parts, and are recommended by the designer of that amplifier. |
MJ15003/4 are in current production and run about $3.50 a piece. Do people really bother counterfeiting these?
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Sadly, yes.
I have some "MJ15024" and "MJ15025" that aren't much more expensive nowadays and they are counterfeit. They blow up at about 1/3 (derated for temperature of course!) rated power :( |
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The MJ21196 is a recent part, not available in 99.
The MJ15024 case does not look like that, never has. The MJ10022 has an 02 date code. Measure the B-E capacitance, it should be in excess of 2800pF on real parts. http://www.convectron.com/audio/real.jpg Motorola became ON sometime in 99 (real parts shown above). |
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Djk: Now show us the *inside*..... |
Ah, you beat me to it!
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OK. Technically the current production parts are MJ15004G - http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....eyword=MJ15004 With the G version being the unleaded version. Do the leaded parts work or sound better? |
Actually, the seem to be back! That's good to know. I was looking for them 6 months or a year ago, and ON had them listed as 'obsolete' with MJ15024/025 listed as possible subs (but we knew that). Maybe they got sick of all the phonies out there becuase for a while that's all you could get. Still no dice on the 2N6609 :(
The G versions have a little more problems with solderability. In production, you\'re supposed to retool with all new solder and reflow temp profiles to get best results. With hand soldering I doubt it will ever be a problem. |
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