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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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In the power amp section, I would like to use a 30-0-30 3 amp transformer. Is this possible or is it limited to the 25-0-25 5 amp noted?
Also, would one recommend heatsinks on the bd139/140's? Thanks http://sound.westhost.com/project27b.htm |
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#2 |
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Banned
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The short answer is no, the voltage is too high and the current too low.
The simplest thing is to follow Rod Elliott's recommendations. You will have enough problems just getting that right without adding to them. The cost and effort of building an amplifier mean that there's little point in cutting corners. w |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the north
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30-0-30 VAC transformer with generate somthing like
30 x 1.4 or even maybe 30 x 1.5 = 42-45 Volt 2 x 42-45V = 84-90 Volt For BD139/140 this is the critical voltage, MAX 80 Volt. They may survive, they may not. Different exemplars of any transistor can take a bit more than absolute max rating. Others will be destroyed. Trafo 25-0-25 will generate 2x35-2x38 Volt, and this is within safety margins for BD139/140. I would advice to not experiment, but use the recommended 2x24 or 2x25 VAC trafos. There will be a couple of Watts in BD139/140, maybe 1-3 Watt, when Higher output levels. I should cut from some 1mm thick aliuminium pieces. Size ~ 20-25x40-50 mm (like 1" x 2") and screw them onto those BD139/140. I usually bend the wings of those plates to make the whole thing not to wide to fit. This will be enough to keep them TO-126 from getting too hot. Not at all as big as in attachment. Those are for bigger TO-220 Output transistors. But I made them out of 1 mm Alumiumsheet.
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lineup |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)
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Quote:
trannies (see attached schema) this one is the 27B with 45-0-45v operation and could run nicely with over 50v. Dont expect it to be a Hi-fi amp , but it will do a guitar real good. Inputs (Q1/2) run at 1 and 3mA, Q3 runs at 10mA (small radioshack to-220 heatsink), Q4/5 also run at 10mA (I would also put these on separate small to-220 heatsinks, contrary to rod's recommendation). To really make a durable amp the mj15003/4 would be the best for outputs. OS |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
change the VAS from 340 to a low Cob transistor. Add an emitter resistor to the VAS. In ESP schematic Re~30r In Os schematic use ~56r for Re. Change input DC blocking cap (C1) to 470nF. Os, do you really want 1r0 for output emitter resistors? Would you recommend input emitter resistors? Maybe 100r to 330r?
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regards Andrew T. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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25-0,25-0Vac 3Aac will power upto 100W into 4r0.
If you go to 30Vac then use ~4Aac. For 35Vac use ~4.3Aac.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#8 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)
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Quote:
Look at Cdom , it is 220p, that will "swamp" any amount of Cob regardless of device (even use a mje15032,won't need a HS). This amp was designed to be a basic instrument amp with ultra low parts count ,you could mount the diodes on one of the drivers for more thermal stability (CFP) in simulation it seems a little underbiased (50mA)but I think that was intended seeing it's purpose. It also triangulates a sqaure wave at 15khz ,which backs my opinion of it..not a Hi-fi amp. A 200R trim in series with the diodes would give a nice touch to the amp. As far as degenerating the input diff. this amp does not offer much OLG (50DB) , so I think rod intended for that as well. OS Quote:
would clip like hell (good for guitar). |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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for the original design, would this be the correct transformer to use?
167P50 If I am correct, since it is using 5 amp fuses in the power supply section, it would use a 5 amp transformer. It isn't really specified in the project. http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/5c0020-21.pdf |
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