My first time......

tonynorie · 4th January 2009, 02:18 AM

OK guys......I've ordered the 1/4" input jack that needs replacing on my Crate bass amp and I'm trying to build confidence to solder the thing to the pc board.

I've done some minor soldering jobs in the past - like joining a phono plug to wires, etc., but I've yet to tackle anything as sensitive as this project.

Any warnings, advice, things to avoid, etc. would be warmly appreciated.

Thanks!

Tony

Mickey Bitsko · 4th January 2009, 03:13 AM

Best advice I can give would be to not leave the iron on the board any longer than necessary. That being said, make sure the solder flows completely and is shiny when finished.

cbdb · 4th January 2009, 06:07 AM

pre "tin" the conector and wire (heat them and melt some solder on them)=heat the connector for a few seconds (3-5) touch the solder to the iron so a couple drops melt then let the melted solder touch the connector. The melted solder will conduct alot more heat so the connector gets tinned without melting any plastic insulation. As soon as this solder starts to run (spreads on the metal which is now hot ) touch the wire to the conector and its solder should melt quickly and every thing runs together. Remove heat while not moving the wire. and in a couple seconds its cold

cbdb · 4th January 2009, 06:12 AM

If its a critical solder, practice on something first. ( no melted plastic, all conectors seem to have differnt heat tolerances so be careful)

c2cthomas · 4th January 2009, 06:34 AM

Lots of info here: http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm#howto

Another good site to visit: http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/telescope/soldering.htm

Another tip (no pun intended) is to match the size of soldering iron tip to the work to be done. Small tip for small solder joint - big tip for big solder joint etc. If you use to small a tip you will most likely wind up with a cold solder joint - if you use to big a tip then you "could" wind up burning the circuit board or component if you applied the iron for to long.

ps - wear some safety glasses!

Spiny · 4th January 2009, 10:12 AM

If this Crate is a couple of years old or more make sure you use tin/lead solder not lead free. Using lead free solder on an item made with lead solder is asking for trouble with poor / dry joints IMHO.

As its a 1/4" jack being soldered a temp controlled iron is helpful. small (15watt) irons probably will not have enough heat

4th January 2009, 02:18 AM	#1
tonynorie diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2008	My first time...... OK guys......I've ordered the 1/4" input jack that needs replacing on my Crate bass amp and I'm trying to build confidence to solder the thing to the pc board. I've done some minor soldering jobs in the past - like joining a phono plug to wires, etc., but I've yet to tackle anything as sensitive as this project. Any warnings, advice, things to avoid, etc. would be warmly appreciated. Thanks! Tony

4th January 2009, 06:34 AM	#5
c2cthomas 49 - for the 16th time diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Near "Music City" (Nashville Tennessee)	Lots of info here: http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm#howto Another good site to visit: http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/telescope/soldering.htm Another tip (no pun intended) is to match the size of soldering iron tip to the work to be done. Small tip for small solder joint - big tip for big solder joint etc. If you use to small a tip you will most likely wind up with a cold solder joint - if you use to big a tip then you "could" wind up burning the circuit board or component if you applied the iron for to long. ps - wear some safety glasses! __________________ "You can't always get what you want" K. Richards/M. Jagger *** "Next time I will know some things better" Zen Mod

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4th January 2009, 03:13 AM	#2
Mickey Bitsko diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2007	Best advice I can give would be to not leave the iron on the board any longer than necessary. That being said, make sure the solder flows completely and is shiny when finished.

4th January 2009, 06:07 AM	#3
cbdb diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver	pre "tin" the conector and wire (heat them and melt some solder on them)=heat the connector for a few seconds (3-5) touch the solder to the iron so a couple drops melt then let the melted solder touch the connector. The melted solder will conduct alot more heat so the connector gets tinned without melting any plastic insulation. As soon as this solder starts to run (spreads on the metal which is now hot ) touch the wire to the conector and its solder should melt quickly and every thing runs together. Remove heat while not moving the wire. and in a couple seconds its cold

4th January 2009, 06:12 AM	#4
cbdb diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver	If its a critical solder, practice on something first. ( no melted plastic, all conectors seem to have differnt heat tolerances so be careful)

4th January 2009, 10:12 AM	#6
Spiny diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	If this Crate is a couple of years old or more make sure you use tin/lead solder not lead free. Using lead free solder on an item made with lead solder is asking for trouble with poor / dry joints IMHO. As its a 1/4" jack being soldered a temp controlled iron is helpful. small (15watt) irons probably will not have enough heat

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