What is the prefered meathod for controling volume

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While isolation is non-optional, you can choose either a cap or an input transformer. However, the transformer would alter your design and you'd be "stuck" with the result. A cap is better because, with a small selection of caps, you'll naturally choose the one that pleases you most. Use a cap.

An audiophile product is very much worthwhile if/when it is documented for use with your exact same circuit. If that is not the case, then the potential for performance is the same between a $200 cap and a $0.02 cap.

The electrical performance in audiophile products relates to repeatable results. So, do a search on your own amplifier and see what other people prefer to use with that same model amplifier or one that is very similar. :D

P.S. A PolyPropylene cap is usually linear, and its a seriously inappropriate substitute for buffer. Doing that will get you an audio compressor. The traditional substitute for a buffer is an oil cap. Some polyester can do it fine (there's so many varieties of polyester caps that there's no telling which will do), and there are very few models of ecap able for that job. However, the very best thing to use when you need a buffer. . . is a buffer. ;)

P.P.S. For large audio improvments, the input circuit isn't an effective place to spend money. The most effective spot to apply some cash towards better audio, is the power circuit.
 
I got it from my KEF cresta 10 speaker crossover. The brand is Likon. It is very small, much like the electrolytic.

I have order the Jantzen cross cap which I will put in once arrive.

Again, I agree with the fact the input cap need not be priority. The priority is in the power signal cap.
 
Refering to post #7 input method, I found replacing the input pot from 250k to 50k gives the transparency. Putting back the 250k becomes compressed. I guess the cap gives the frequency highpass ?????

I am so tempted to bypass the 3.3uF cap. After I have check and confirm the input DC is block so the 3.3uF cant be a highpass right.
 
ccschua said:
Refering to post #7 input method, I found replacing the input pot from 250k to 50k gives the transparency. Putting back the 250k becomes compressed. I guess the cap gives the frequency highpass ?????

I am so tempted to bypass the 3.3uF cap. After I have check and confirm the input DC is block so the 3.3uF cant be a highpass right.


Its possible that a DC detector speaker protector will help you with these endeavors. That way, if you do happen to output DC, it will merrily disconnect the speaker. Its fine to use the "relay" type.

In reference to 50k working better than 250k, I guess that an impedance mismatch was something you didn't need? That really is just a guess. However, if you liked that difference, maybe a "buffer" or an input transformer would also be good experiments.
 
Finally I remove that cap and put in a pair of silver coated wires. I am phscologically happy and soundwise, less component is better sound right.

So I guess the impedance mismatch has happen in my case where putting a 50k pot serves to reveal the sound and produces the deeper bass. This will bring me to consider replacing that 50k pot with a 10k of 5k pot or even a resistor attenuator.
 
ccschua said:
Finally I remove that cap and put in a pair of silver coated wires. I am phscologically happy and soundwise, less component is better sound right.

So I guess the impedance mismatch has happen in my case where putting a 50k pot serves to reveal the sound and produces the deeper bass. This will bring me to consider replacing that 50k pot with a 10k of 5k pot or even a resistor attenuator.

You may wish that the amplifier has two inputs:
1). A "Warning! DC Coupled" labeled input (the one you now have is DC Coupled)
and
2). A second input protected by capacitors (perhaps Nichicon ES 2.2uF + a 100nF ceramic).

This was just to give you an idea.

A DPDT on/on switch can make the 2 input selector switch convenient.
 
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