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Old 18th January 2009, 10:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by carlmart
You increase it by moving this pot. But this should be the last thing to do. You have to be very careful and watch the heatsinks temp, so they can dissipate the additional heat as you increase bias. Also watch the output transistors temp, just in case the heat transfer is not efficient enough. If they get hot to the touch you may need to change the isolators and use more efficient ones, or the transistors may no last.

But beware: not always does increasing bias improve things.

The critical caps are C2 and C7. Put the best you can afford on C2, bypassed or not (try), and check what you have on C7. If C7 is a decent one, designed for audio, just leave it: you will only do better by going for a film cap or a maybe a servo. If not try a Black Gate or something.
Thanks Carlmart, I will plan on getting a bigger transformer to go along with more ps caps (but still keep it as one supply). Against your good advice, I feel the urge to play with the bias first (because I've never seen an amp idle so cold). But to adjust it equally for the 3 channels, should I measure the voltage drop across one of the 1k resistors (R20 or R21) in series with the pot and keep it the same for each channel, or is there a better way?

I'm surprised C7 is also critical, but I can see it sitting between output and ground (with R18 in between). I will leave it alone for now unless I stumble upon a suitable replacement.
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Old 18th January 2009, 10:15 AM   #12
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Sakis:
Indeed the layout is odd, especially tying all the wires together (input, ground, supply, output). I will try to sort this out when I add ps caps and swap transformer and diode bridge, at least as far as making the wiring paths a bit more symmetrical.
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Old 19th January 2009, 07:11 AM   #13
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Default hmmm

Quote:
Originally posted by Tosh
Sakis:
Indeed the layout is odd, especially tying all the wires together (input, ground, supply, output). I will try to sort this out when I add ps caps and swap transformer and diode bridge, at least as far as making the wiring paths a bit more symmetrical.

that too...... it real doesnt make any sense ( the wiring )

i presume that you understand why i dont like big caps placed like that ..... ( fluids go to only one side through th years and then you get less capacitance )
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Old 19th January 2009, 02:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Thanks Carlmart, I will plan on getting a bigger transformer to go along with more ps caps (but still keep it as one supply). Against your good advice, I feel the urge to play with the bias first (because I've never seen an amp idle so cold). But to adjust it equally for the 3 channels, should I measure the voltage drop across one of the 1k resistors (R20 or R21) in series with the pot and keep it the same for each channel, or is there a better way?
You can do it, but you may have to retouch it afterwards.

Perhaps the instructions below may help you:

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gerskine/dxamp/


Quote:
I'm surprised C7 is also critical, but I can see it sitting between output and ground (with R18 in between). I will leave it alone for now unless I stumble upon a suitable replacement.
IMHO that capacitor may have more importance than the one at the input, because it affects the feedback.
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Old 19th January 2009, 09:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: hmmm

Quote:
Originally posted by sakis
i presume that you understand why i dont like big caps placed like that ..... ( fluids go to only one side through th years and then you get less capacitance )
Come on, Sakis?! Just how gullible do you think I am? No wonder it sounds better when I have the amp standing on its side! What if I swap them around every couple of years? Just what I needed: something new to worry about...

I thought you were talking about the ps caps' distance away from the pcbs.

But now that you mention it, it would make it tidier if the original and new ps caps I'll be adding were all oriented up, so I can make a nice big ground bar across them all.
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Old 20th January 2009, 07:04 AM   #16
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Default Re: Re: hmmm

Quote:
Originally posted by Tosh

Come on, Sakis?! Just how gullible do you think I am? No wonder it sounds better when I have the amp standing on its side! What if I swap them around every couple of years? Just what I needed: something new to worry about...

I thought you were talking about the ps caps' distance away from the pcbs.

But now that you mention it, it would make it tidier if the original and new ps caps I'll be adding were all oriented up, so I can make a nice big ground bar across them all.

constructing one amp ore restoring one is a list of do's and dont's...
i ll give you an example .....in yamaha amp aged like hell (25-30years)CA 400 may be 40+40 W do you think that worth :

---to recab banks from 2x4700 to 2x10.000 mfd
---relocate zobel in the out put
---match and common heatsink on LTP stage
---add multi turn to idle
--- create a start ground and seperate the box from it
---rewire and replace poor signal cables
--- rewire and replace speaker's cables ( actually rewire them
away from ac 220 volts cables)
---- remove speakers A/B switch
---- recap the all unit add by passed decoupling
---- replace fuse holders and fuses

well first of all if the costuemer pay for it then yes worth the trouble ...... then again if you measure the amp before and after the changes are astronomical .....and most of all it WAS FUN TO DO !!!!!!!

in your case and for such an amp of course makes sense to rewire ..... to replace caps not only as un upgrade but also as a position

friendly regards sakis
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Old 26th January 2009, 10:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by carlmart
IMHO that capacitor may have more importance than the one at the input, because it affects the feedback.
I see! It is an 'RGA'-branded 220uF 25V NP that looks fairly ordinary. Perhaps I will squeeze in a couple of 470uF 16V Nichicons soldered end-to-end to make them non-polar? (Does it matter which ends - plus or minus - face out?)

Klipsch emailed me the schematic for the A100X3 (which is an update over my 100X3), but it is essentially the same as the DIA-100, so I'll keep referring to the DIA-100 here. (Especially as this is FSHZ:42's thread! How's your DIA-100, Emile?)

Sakis, I had a recent similar upgrade experience myself on my cheapie Pioneer DV-250 DVD player (and I'm not even done yet). I am aiming to make changes to this amp in small steps so I can hear the effect of each change.

I now have a ~500VA 80VCT toroidal transformer onto which I can wind additional voltage. Should I just aim for the original's ~93VCT?

Going back through this thread I realized it has been mentioned twice to use >multi-turn< pots for the bias. Is it that important? I might as well do it when I have the pcb out? I won't play with the bias until I make some new heat sinks, for which I have big plans. By the way, how is the DC offset adjusted on these?

One of the small differences between the 100X3 circuit and DIA-100 circuit is that R1 (100k between positive input and signal ground) on 100X3 is not before the input caps C1 (0.1uF film bypass) and C2 (10uF electrolytic), but afterward, so I could actually replace C2 with a film cap at the input RCA socket. Would there be a downside to this (as there are many inches of signal wire to get to the pcb)?

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 27th January 2009, 12:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Klipsch emailed me the schematic for the A100X3 (which is an update over my 100X3), but it is essentially the same as the DIA-100, so I'll keep referring to the DIA-100 here. (Especially as this is FSHZ:42's thread! How's your DIA-100, Emile?)
Hi Tosh, My DIA-100 is still playing really well! It seems to get a little better with more break-in hours. This upgrade was well worth the cost! As I described in my last post, this upgrade was actually thought out by Jeff Glowacki from Sonicraft. If anyone should know how to upgrade, Jeff would be the one. Like I said, I am not sure to what extent you're willing to go, but if the Sonicap Platinum's are too costly, I would recommend trying the Gen I's.

Emile
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Old 4th February 2009, 08:00 AM   #19
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I found some 1k multi turn Bourns at Halted Specialties. And my ps caps and film caps for input arrived from Apex Jr. So now I just need to pick out rectifier diodes.

I started making new heat sinks which have over 1.7 times the surface area of the originals.
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Old 7th June 2009, 09:26 PM   #20
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Default Done!

I finally got around to wrapping up these mods to my Acurus 100X3:
new heatsink
add PS caps 8x15000uF
add 0R25 to CRCC ps caps
new trafo (~600VA 80VCT)
new input caps: 10uF Nichicon Muse
new feedback caps: 220uF Nichicon Muse
new Bourns 10k multi-turn bias trim pots
add LEDs in cover (as light in switch is bad)
new feet

I think bumping the bias made the biggest change in sound at normal volumes. (I initially measured about 0.02-0.03A draw on the plus rail and increased it to about 0.18A with room to go still.) New input and feedback caps made the top end nicer. The extra PS caps added solidity to the bass. PS ripple went from 0.015VAC to 0.003-0.004VAC.
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