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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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hi there
Fans are noisy,why not make a chimney for it. regards max |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)
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Get greenlee 3/4 inch hole punch set or ramp up to at least
2 rows of 1/2 inch holes underneath heatsink (6-8 3/4 " or 2 rows of 10 - 1/2") above and below heatsink. Convection should keep it cool. What amp is that?? ..,2- lm3886's? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
cut a big slot to match the plan area of the heatsink in the floor of the chassis and a matching one in the top plate. The sink will block of the bottom slot, add a mesh to the top slot to prevent fingers items getting in.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Can you draw equations of your thermal system?
It is a differential equation with many variables (I humbly suppose), if to draw one in some tolerances in mind. The aim is to keep Vbe of output transistors stable, right? How do you measure it? How do you compensate it? This is the question. Any real thermo-feedback system have delays. And in order to work it needs some gain. So, the task is very usual, but time constants are different, and methods to calculate them differs. Good luck! Edit: The task is impossible. You will aways get bad results. I've been there, done that. Giving up too complex mathematic modeling I used an infrared camera, and decided that it is better to heat controllably devices instead of regulating them. But after building a prototype I decided to give up the entire idea of complementary emitter followers. It is a dead idea, though it is very popular. Edit again: there are empirical formulas exist. You may keep temperature of the whole heatsink roundly using such formulas. The result will be average. But what you need actually, shorter time delays. One mostly significant delay may be reduced by a forced air, however here noise level start playing. Also, Grasgoff & Prantle criterion is significant in such empirical engineering. Google all around it.
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The devil is not so terrible as his mathematical model! Wavebourn: We Create Creativity! |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Norwich, UK
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More details needed
I'm assuming this uses LM3876/3886 or similar. With that size heatsink it should run quite cool. I think the main thing you need to do is create ventilation holes in the case above and below the heatsink as suggested. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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its a acoustic solutions sp101
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Norwich, UK
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Oh why am I not surprised. Let me guess, bought from Argos? (edit: thought of the wrong seller!!)
They already have a vent in the top. I would second AndrewT's idea - remove the main PCB + heatsink, and cut a hole in the base where the heatsink would be. Honestly though, these things are exactly what you pay for, cheap pieces of junk, built with cheap parts in some chinese factory somewhere. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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I Fink It Does The Job Well.
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| air cooling | karma | Pass Labs | 8 | 11th March 2003 04:54 AM |
| Cooling an amp with poor cooling | BAM | Solid State | 8 | 31st December 2001 04:40 AM |
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