Easy proof
Jorge, what more can I say?
If you whant to hear it playing, send me a mail.
But I give you my word that the person I was talking about that heard my brother's system (it's a friend of mine for long years) has more expericence in hearing systems (he works with high-end every day), and more ear for detecting subtle changes than you and me.
Jorge, what more can I say?
If you whant to hear it playing, send me a mail.
But I give you my word that the person I was talking about that heard my brother's system (it's a friend of mine for long years) has more expericence in hearing systems (he works with high-end every day), and more ear for detecting subtle changes than you and me.
well...
Sorry for all this talk Elizard...
Jean-Paul gave you e very good advice in the beginning.
I see he has the same good experience as I do with Burr-Brown op-amps.
Other people came in saying otherwise.
You must be really confused by now.
I can only advice you to test it and judge for your self.
Then enjoy the high-end sound of an OPA627.
Sorry for all this talk Elizard...
Jean-Paul gave you e very good advice in the beginning.
I see he has the same good experience as I do with Burr-Brown op-amps.
Other people came in saying otherwise.
You must be really confused by now.
I can only advice you to test it and judge for your self.
Then enjoy the high-end sound of an OPA627.
Sorry Jorge, it's a fact, I don't know you.
I'm not talking "golden ears".
It's just that for many time I've been amazed the things that guy can discover when hearing a system.
He works with high-end every day, you I don't know.
Customers ask him to go to their homes just to position their speakers.
You know that makes a big difference.
The guy has a feeling, I can tell you.
I don't have idols too.
But I believe these things you learn with plenty of practice and passion for what you do.
I work with Oracle databases every day and of course, if you don't, there aren't plenty of things you can tell me about that.
I am humble enough to ask for his help when I want to hear a thing and I'm not so shure if it's better or not.
Maby you work with high-end every day...
I'm not talking "golden ears".
It's just that for many time I've been amazed the things that guy can discover when hearing a system.
He works with high-end every day, you I don't know.
Customers ask him to go to their homes just to position their speakers.
You know that makes a big difference.
The guy has a feeling, I can tell you.
I don't have idols too.
But I believe these things you learn with plenty of practice and passion for what you do.
I work with Oracle databases every day and of course, if you don't, there aren't plenty of things you can tell me about that.
I am humble enough to ask for his help when I want to hear a thing and I'm not so shure if it's better or not.
Maby you work with high-end every day...
Hi,
Upon reading this forum I bought the same kit. It arrived yesterday and I started construction at 6pm last night. By 2am I had a finished product. It is of excellent build quality and the PCB layout is superb! I soldered the lot in silver solder (I hate that stuff!!!) and by the begginning of the morning
I had a working version (at least it powers up etc.). One thing I did do was putting the -15V regulator in the wrong way around. (Hey it was early!!!) It is of the opposing orientation to the +15V. That caused the Power LED not to light up. That still produced about -4V on the negative rail though, and the 0V offset was up at about 11V!!! I turned it around and everything was OK again (tough little devices!)
I'll test it tonight...can't wait!!! Thanks for pointing it out!
Gaz
Upon reading this forum I bought the same kit. It arrived yesterday and I started construction at 6pm last night. By 2am I had a finished product. It is of excellent build quality and the PCB layout is superb! I soldered the lot in silver solder (I hate that stuff!!!) and by the begginning of the morning
I had a working version (at least it powers up etc.). One thing I did do was putting the -15V regulator in the wrong way around. (Hey it was early!!!) It is of the opposing orientation to the +15V. That caused the Power LED not to light up. That still produced about -4V on the negative rail though, and the 0V offset was up at about 11V!!! I turned it around and everything was OK again (tough little devices!)I'll test it tonight...can't wait!!! Thanks for pointing it out!
Gaz
Hi,
I HAVE to report this...I have made a good looking preamp - exquisit!
Step 1: Replace all horrible yellow LEDs with water clear, high brightness 3mm blue LEDs. They actually fit better than the standard ones and kind of Click into place. More to the point - they're beautiful!
Step 2: Replace bolts with black anodised bolts that complement my OptiMOS monoblocks.
Step 3: Not tried this yet - but I'll see how it looks. It replaces the standard volume knob with a brushed aluminium one. I'll see if it looks better tonight.
Step 4: Haven't tried this yet either....But basically, an opamp upgrade. The sound is nice at the moment, but a bit harsh. I'm hoping it's going to settle down - but if not - I'll upgrade the opamp.
Step 5: I haven't had a close look at the schematics yet, but I intend on writing the PIC control code to have the power led off when the unit is off and on when the unit is playing. Why the chose it the wrong way around I don't know!
Due to some damage on one of the shell profiles, I don't have one of the sides...When I get it back, I'll take some pics.
Gaz
I HAVE to report this...I have made a good looking preamp - exquisit!
Step 1: Replace all horrible yellow LEDs with water clear, high brightness 3mm blue LEDs. They actually fit better than the standard ones and kind of Click into place. More to the point - they're beautiful!
Step 2: Replace bolts with black anodised bolts that complement my OptiMOS monoblocks.
Step 3: Not tried this yet - but I'll see how it looks. It replaces the standard volume knob with a brushed aluminium one. I'll see if it looks better tonight.
Step 4: Haven't tried this yet either....But basically, an opamp upgrade. The sound is nice at the moment, but a bit harsh. I'm hoping it's going to settle down - but if not - I'll upgrade the opamp.
Step 5: I haven't had a close look at the schematics yet, but I intend on writing the PIC control code to have the power led off when the unit is off and on when the unit is playing. Why the chose it the wrong way around I don't know!
Due to some damage on one of the shell profiles, I don't have one of the sides...When I get it back, I'll take some pics.
Gaz
Rarkov said:
well .. now is about the time i consider the updates
i just made sure it works fine .. it does, its great!
sounding pretty good .. I'm used to a cheap receiver ..
and i've no amps at the moment .. so 8021 is pushing a set of headphones in my case ..
i know what you mean about the LED's .. YUCK .. they're what, yellow .. orange? ew!
I'm definitely goin to an electronics store and picking up a set of nice clear ones .. Are there any specifications for them I should look at? like are just any ordinary LED's (provided I like the color) going to work?
As far as the bolts go .. now that you've mentioned it, i might consider it so that they go with the rest of my equipment ..
however i'm gonna get 8040's for the amps when i get money, but those will be sitting next to the speakers anyway ..
that's something i'll think of when i get a chance, or i just am in a hardware store and i remember it
i've already thought about the knob itself .. looked at a few ..
here's what i found
http://www.kilointernational.com/Knobs/knobs.html#
either the JD or the DD series .. They run at $6-7 on digikey
as far as the opamp goes, I'm putting that away for a long while .. at least until i got my amps and they're nicely broken in so i know what it sounds like ..
if its too harsh/muddy then a new one it is
but as of right now, better things to worry about ..
like new LED's
and yeah, i agree w/ the power LED .. what were they thinking?
I guess that LED lights up to indicate that the pre-amp is in standby mode/mute mode .. because there's no real power button .. its a "standby/mute" button
Hi,
I forgot to mention. I also made a set of silver interconnects (Silver wire, Silver solder and gold RCA plugs). They are not broken in yet...I'll see what it's like in a week or so.
The blue LEDs I'm using have a forward voltage of 5.5V and 30mA...but they still run fine. The ones they use are about a 3.3V drop at 30mA I think.
Gaz
I forgot to mention. I also made a set of silver interconnects (Silver wire, Silver solder and gold RCA plugs). They are not broken in yet...I'll see what it's like in a week or so.
The blue LEDs I'm using have a forward voltage of 5.5V and 30mA...but they still run fine. The ones they use are about a 3.3V drop at 30mA I think.
Gaz
jean-paul said:Does it sound better with the blue LED mod ?
Of Course! How'd ya know?!
Oh and the new knob gives it so much more control and presence - widening the soundstage to a whole new level!
With the knob and Blue LEDs it does look sooo much nicer though...
In fact here is a pic of the unfinished article (have to get the replacement side back and change the bolts)...
Attachments
I've got one of these as well. I haven't changed the LEDs or the knob yet, but I've done a couple of other things.
I replaced the stock op-amps with LT1360s. Huge improvement... much smoother sound overall in my opinion. I haven't tried any others yet.
I made up a new relay daughterboard that switches in a monitor loop rather than just directing output through the monitor line outs, so that I can switch in/out a tube linestage that I'm building.
I like the look of the LED mod, so I think that'll be next.
-Mike
I replaced the stock op-amps with LT1360s. Huge improvement... much smoother sound overall in my opinion. I haven't tried any others yet.
I made up a new relay daughterboard that switches in a monitor loop rather than just directing output through the monitor line outs, so that I can switch in/out a tube linestage that I'm building.
I like the look of the LED mod, so I think that'll be next.
-Mike
They are round tipped 3mm. They look really professional because the small flange (or base or whatever you want to call it) fits against the back plate to stop them coming through too far. They stand about .75mm-1mm proud of the front plate.
The best piece of advice I can give for fitting them it prepare them in the same whay as the standard LEDs but push them so they are slightly too far forwards. When you push the front plate on, they will all go in tightly at the same level.
Hope this makes sense...
Gaz
The best piece of advice I can give for fitting them it prepare them in the same whay as the standard LEDs but push them so they are slightly too far forwards. When you push the front plate on, they will all go in tightly at the same level.
Hope this makes sense...
Gaz
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