Lost bias on Marantz 1060 right channel - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 23rd August 2008, 08:47 PM   #11
jaycee is offline jaycee  United Kingdom
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Shouldn't be any risks - larger would be better and I would definitely recommend replacing them as well as the main filter cap.

The originals are 3000uF 55V - 4700uF 63V should do fine, and will probably fit easily. Likewise for the main filter cap, you could probably get a 10,000uF 100V unit in there. Don't go overboard though - an amp this old won't be worth it.
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Old 23rd August 2008, 09:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
as well as the main filter cap.
Problem :
Quote:
Now, where to find a 51mm dia., 68mm L, >=80v, >=4700�F capacitor...
I've looked at Digikey and Mouser, both don't carry 2" / 50.8mm dia. capacitors, and when they do, they're $20+ screw terminal or snap-in caps. 35mm ones are cheap and very easy to find on the other side...

EDIT: Newark, AES and Allied, same thing...
There's one at NewArk for $26 though.
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Old 24th August 2008, 11:01 AM   #13
jaycee is offline jaycee  United Kingdom
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If the height is allowed, you could just replace the mounting bracket with a 35mm one - theyre cheap enough to get.
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Old 24th January 2009, 12:22 AM   #14
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I didn't replace any caps finally.

So, I've heard back from the 1060 owner recently, and the channel apparently failed again. I haven't heard how it sounds like, so I'm not sure if it's a bias issue or anything else. The owner found a separate power amp to use instead.

Anyways, I bought a 1060 as well. It was working perfectly until yesterday : there's crackling on one channel, so I used a freeze can and spotted the first transistor (2SC945) in the power amp stage. It seems it's not just caused by the PCB solder joints, it looks like the internal joints are failing as well...

Edit: My local store has some C945
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Old 24th January 2009, 01:28 AM   #15
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Looks like crud was the problem
I washed the transistor with 99% alcohol and it seems to have fixed the problem (so far)
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Old 6th June 2009, 04:26 AM   #16
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Hi..
I have 1060 myself and trying to find why my left speaker is crackly and soft..

My left channel is all crackly and soft and i have checked all the way along the line on schematic..found my 3000ums have different voltage on positive - right is 32 v and the left is 9 v - yours were both 30 when you posted so i guess this could be reason..any ideas why??
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Old 6th June 2009, 01:34 PM   #17
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Well, I would guess something is wrong around the J716 connection.

Could you compare voltages at J715/716, 713/714, 711/712, 709/710? I believe a few transistors and/or surrounding components are dead.
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Old 7th June 2009, 07:54 AM   #18
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J715 32
J716 9
J713 32
J714 9
J709 and J710 are both 80

I traced J710 to R714 which is 80v on one side and 13v on the other, R713 which is J709s equivalent is 80v on one side and 50v on the other.

This is the first place that there is a difference from what i can tell, everything after that is obviously 32v and 9v up till the big 3000 resister things.

I really have no idea - just trying to use logic...

What do you think?

Thanks heaps for your reply...

Dave
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Old 8th June 2009, 08:42 PM   #19
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Maybe you could test voltage on the channel without the driver transistors and outputs?

You could also test if the 1N60 are open or short, and try to see if there are burnt resistors.

If a transistor is bad, about anything could have caused it. A bad resistor, cap, diode, a chain reaction because one thing burnt, etc.
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Old 11th November 2009, 04:14 AM   #20
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Wow!!.....this is a delightful post....but I'm such a rookie that I barely understand it all! I too have a 1060 with a dead channel.....and I'm going to replace the output transistors just to see if that fixes the amp. Any suggestions would be appreciated.....I believe it has all original OTs in it now.....the 2SC897s. In changing the two.....I figured I change all 4. The mentioned MJ15003.....is that readily available, and are there any other changes I should make in order for these replacement OTs to function properly? Thanks, Tom D.
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