Hy to all of you guys !
I'am a begginer in DYI audio electronics. The first amp i built was based on the TDA2040. ( don't laugh ). Then i wanted more power so i built an amp based on the 7250 and a pair of darlingtons tip142/47 / channel. Now i would like to know some things from the pro's :
- The power supply that gives me +/- 37 V uses 2 x 10000 Uf capacitors. Are the capacitors enough ? What are the good things in raising the capacitors value ?
- There is a better replacement for the 7250 ?
- With what darlingtons can i get the highes power from the 7250 ?
Thnks for helping.
I hope i don't bother with this rookie stuff,
I'am a begginer in DYI audio electronics. The first amp i built was based on the TDA2040. ( don't laugh ). Then i wanted more power so i built an amp based on the 7250 and a pair of darlingtons tip142/47 / channel. Now i would like to know some things from the pro's :
- The power supply that gives me +/- 37 V uses 2 x 10000 Uf capacitors. Are the capacitors enough ? What are the good things in raising the capacitors value ?
- There is a better replacement for the 7250 ?
- With what darlingtons can i get the highes power from the 7250 ?
Thnks for helping.
I hope i don't bother with this rookie stuff,
u can build a lot of powerful amps withe TDA7250...
AMP 1 400W
AMP 2 250w
AMP 3 400w
AMP 4 2x150w
AND A LOT IN THE SITE
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
AMP 1 400W
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
AMP 2 250w
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
AMP 3 400w
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
AMP 4 2x150w
AND A LOT IN THE SITE
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I’m not a pro:
- I think the most relevant advantage is for the capacitor to retain power when required to give a low powerful bass. It’s not only the capacitance value that is important. Capacitor quality must also be considered (I’m impressed with Panasonic for it’s price to quality ratio)
- Don’t know, but I doubt it. As long as it is in chip case, it must be class AB. When better performance is required, going discrete is I think the only choice.
- MJ11015 (PNP)/MJ11016 is the only replacement I ever used, and I think it is the best (in power and quality). It cost me 7X the TIP price (but this Motorolla is in TO-3 package).
And DJ, those links are broken.
- I think the most relevant advantage is for the capacitor to retain power when required to give a low powerful bass. It’s not only the capacitance value that is important. Capacitor quality must also be considered (I’m impressed with Panasonic for it’s price to quality ratio)
- Don’t know, but I doubt it. As long as it is in chip case, it must be class AB. When better performance is required, going discrete is I think the only choice.
- MJ11015 (PNP)/MJ11016 is the only replacement I ever used, and I think it is the best (in power and quality). It cost me 7X the TIP price (but this Motorolla is in TO-3 package).
And DJ, those links are broken.
Thanks for helping me out here.
Now i ran into another problem. At +/- 38 V and RL=4 ohm. when i turn on the volume over a certain point the amp shuts down and when i lower the volume the amp waits a few secs and then turns on again.
What is the problem ?
Can be that the speakers can't take the load and the amp knows that and is shutting himself off for protection ?
Thanks again for help.
P.S. Great pictures of 7250 amps.
Now i ran into another problem. At +/- 38 V and RL=4 ohm. when i turn on the volume over a certain point the amp shuts down and when i lower the volume the amp waits a few secs and then turns on again.
What is the problem ?
Can be that the speakers can't take the load and the amp knows that and is shutting himself off for protection ?
Thanks again for help.
P.S. Great pictures of 7250 amps.
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